After the farwell Fashion show by Soeren Le Schmidt Show on day 1, the bar was raised for the second day of CPHFW. Nevertheless the show must go on and Day 2 in Copenhagen truly put a show, with shows by STAMM, Lovechild 1979, Rolf Ekroth, VAIN, Sunflower, and debuts by FORZA Collective, Tess van Zalinge
and Nicklas Skovgaard.
STAMM debuts its Spring-summer collection
Stamm's show started the sunny afternoon of day 2 of the CPHFW. The cleared skies outside converged with the upbeat vibes of the show hosted inside Kedelhallen (lit. "The Boilerhouse") a cultural and sports venue in the Frederiksberg district of Copenhagen.
All images below photo credit: James Cochrane unless otherwise stated.
The brand's founder, is Danish designer Elisabet Stamm, who condensed her ideas of the 90s hip hop and mood in a spring-summer 2024 show titled Dont Stop, We're Dreaming.
Danish designer Elisabet Stamm with her son.
Swedish pop icon Silvana Imam.
Stamm's show was aptly closed by Swedish pop icon Silvana Imam, demonstrating Scandinavian brand's international outlook. The award-winning brand was launched in 2023 and is a winner of the ZSA Zalando Sustainability Award-upon showing its debut FW23 runways show during Copenhagen Fashion Week.
Danish author Laerke Bagger for Stamm SS24.
Elisabet describes her approach to the creations as 'truck poetry'. With a globetrotter family background, bright personality and a dreamy, visionary mind - Stamm's main characteristic is the dualism that can be found in different forms, such as strong vs sensitive, high fashion with a low-key approach, truck vs couture, calm vs dynamic. Diverse meetings, conversations are key to the brand, which is why 'exchange' has become an extension to the brand name.
Model Oliver Houlby for Stamm.
The unique designs are created for longevity and made with consciously sourced materials, of which origin, craft and general existence are carried forward with transparency and traceability. Stamm incorporates materials and practices in the structure where crafted handmade, naturally processed Indian fabrics meet recycled man made fabrics – an approach and expression of crossways. Also the brand works only with RDS certified goose down filling and as a new initiative natural kapok fibre is introduced as filling.
STAMM SPRING/SUMMER 2024.
Lovechild 1979 Spring Summer 2024 show titled Sensitive Standards
The still life work of Irving Penn possesses profound depth, which inspires this collection, show notes stated "exuding tactility and character that captivates and draws us in."
For the Spring Summer 2024 collection, presented around the corner of storied Carlsberg beer factory and HQ, the brand highlights the quintessential woman. A proficient, imaginative, self-reflective, and sophisticated individual. A contemporary approach to textiles creates a body armor, through a sculptural collection, crafting soft tailoring that embraces the body, creates a hybrid between atelier and soft summer dressing. Working with heavy textiles counterbalanced by the featherlike cotton-silk voile, satin and crepe.
Collaborating with a Danish/Peruvian female community for this collection, the brand introduces a soft alpaca yarn in a delicate, natural hue.
Rolf Ekroth
Rolf Ekroth sets off on a voyage of self-discovery in the spring or summer of 2024, guided by the idea of "missing." He draws inspiration from the various meanings of the term and uses intricately draped ankle-grazing aprons, enormous shapes, and delicately hand-painted designs to both connect to his cultural past and express an enduring nostalgia that reverberates through generations. The collection comes together at the point where Ekroth's personal yearning for the 1990s of his pastel-hued childhood, his parents' recollections of the delicate 1960s, and his grandparents' longing for a history that has passed but is still very much present come together. Lighthearted sarcasm and genuine empathy are balanced in Ekroth's vision, which is seen through a rose-colored lens. A painstakingly repeated rose motif that appears in prints and little elements embodies the evocative idea of rose-tinted spectacles.
The brand is linking seemingly unconnected references — from the beloved video game Zelda to the unassuming elegance of 1930s Scandinavian women who toiled in the fields. The collection’s prints bloom with three distinct hand-painted rose patterns that borrow their visual language from traditional paintings of rose gardens. Their visible brushstrokes become an ode to a life lived away from screens. Breezy pastels borrowed from Ekroth’s memories of the 1990s, and dark woollen tartans complement the rose motifs. Ekroth pays tribute to the hardworking countryside people of past generations through the elongated silhouettes of utilitarian aprons and workwear dresses. Notably, he reimagines his friendship bracelets as miniature alpha-woven pendants that adorn the garments, hung in respect for traditional Nordic handicrafts.
The independent Finnish fashion label champions utilitarianism, nostalgia and the power of sustainably produced clothes partners with the iconic Finnish jewelry brand KALEVALA, known for its iconic ‘Planetoid Valleys’ necklace, worn by Princess Leia in Star Wars. The company was founded by independent women in 1937 and is still owned by the Kalevala Women’s Association. In Rolf Ekroth´s Linked by Kalevala collection, Preloved jewelry from past decades is combined with cutting edge fashion.
Dutch name debuts at Copenhagen Fashion Week
Fashion enthusiasts, art lovers and industry insiders were treated to an extraordinary experience as Tess van Zalinge, the first Dutch designer to be programmed at Copenhagen Fashion Week presented her newest collection in a mesmerizing tableau vivant at Galleri Christoffer Egelund Copenhagen. Yesterday, from 16:30 to 18:30, the event took place, immersing the audience in a unique fashion presentation that transcended the conventional runway, “to be the first Dutch designer to be programmed at Copenhagen Fashion Week is an honour and a dream coming true! This was only my first introduction to Denmark and I am very much looking forward to the next international steps.” van Zalinge stated.
Amsterdam Fashion Week
As part of the continued journey, Tess van Zalinge is thrilled to announce she will open this years Amsterdam Fashion Week, where she will showcase the complete ‘klavertje drie’ collection. The highly anticipated event will take place in Rotterdam on the roof of Depot Boijmans Van Beuningen. Attendees can look forward to an exceptional runway show, where Tess van Zalinge’s visionary designs, crafted from waste materials, will take center stage, epitomizing the beauty of craftsmanship, sustainability, and the power of storytelling.
‘klavertje drie’
What made this presentation distinctive was that the entire collection was developed from waste materials of the big couture houses, exemplifying Tess van Zalinge’s commitment to environmentally conscious practices. Each piece represented a masterpiece of upcycling and eco-friendly design, showcasing the immense potential of transforming discarded materials from the big fashion houses into stunning fashion creations.
“We believe that fashion can be a powerful force for positive change,” said Tess van Zalinge. “By creating this collection from waste materials, we aim to inspire the industry and consumers alike to embrace sustainable practices and rethink the possibilities of fashion.” Adding an extra touch of sustainability to the presentation, the models were adorned with stylish shoes from YUME YUME - a brand founded by Eva Korsten and Dave Hendriks in 2020, that’s committed to bringing a future-thinking size-inclusive collection of wardrobe staples designed to add personality to every wardrobe.
Kristoffer Kongshaug debuts FORZA COLLECTIVE - an utilitarian couture collection
Founded in Copenhagen in 2022 by Creative Director, Kristoffer Kongshaug, FORZA COLLECTIVE operates in the intersection of couture and ready-to-wear to create responsibly produced, timeless high-end pieces to be "a bridge between day and evening wear, sportswear and couture while adding utilitarian details," Kongshaug stated, adding that all in "recycled nylon produced in Lombardia in Italy and woven in a way that makes it feel like satin, yet it is incredibly durable."
Image Visionnaire MM.
My mission is to create no-nonsense, yet technically advanced pieces of highest quality that are as beautiful on the inside as on the outside, while a minimum carbon footprint is guaranteed. We call it utilitarian couture.
Kristoffer Kongshaug, Founder & Creative Director
Image Visionnaire MM.
Forza Collective is one of three finalists nominated to the Wessel & Vett Fashion Prize 2023 - Scandinavia’s most prestigious award for fashion design. Nomination is merited through the brand's values and production, from the textiles, exclusively conceived by Limonta in Italy, tout an environmentally conscientious lifecycle, entirely eco-friendly. Designed in Copenhagen, their production unfolds in Portugal, underpinning a tripartite sustainability commitment encompassing 'Product,' 'Supplier,' and 'Operational' domains. FORZA COLLECTIVE, a self-governing assembly of visionaries, passionately strives to produce lasting creations, embracing the responsibility of providing beloved items of timeless charm.
VAIN
Vain and its story is a testament to the very nature of what it means to be creative in the digital age. Subtle cultural references and extreme attention to detail are the defining hallmarks of Vain. Regardless of its contemporary origins, Vain is all about love.
Vain has been making a name for itself through viral projects, such as a recent collaboration with McDonald's upcycling their old work uniforms into a fashion collection, which reached over 200 million people on social media and garnered over 300 articles written worldwide. Vain's FW23 debut collection 'NU-RMO' was presented at Pitti Uomo 103 in January 2023.
Model Oliver Houlby closed the Vain SS24 show with a bang. His father also walked for the brand.
Vain approaches sustainability from three perspectives: social, ecological, and economic responsibility, considering each equally important. Vain is on its journey towards sustainability by finding alternative ways to work beyond the traditional fashion industry models such as going for DTC and made-to-order models. By 2026, Vain aims to have over 80% of sales from its online store with over 50% as made-to-order to achieve a minimal inventory. Vain's design philosophy emphasizes the longevity of a product's lifecycle and incorporates design thinking to reconsider the purpose and versatility of each item. The brand is also working with recycled materials and upcycling, experimenting with managing the entire lifecycle of a product from repurposing to reselling and renting services.
The VAIN SS24 collection weaves together elements from diverse subcultures, while each meticulously crafted piece invites viewers and wearers to embrace the world's turbulence while discovering inner harmony, “To be able to live with it, I had to adapt to it and find those beautiful things in the heart of chaos,” says Creative Director and Co-Founder Jimi Vain.
SUNFLOWER closed day 2 of the CPHFW
Sunflower show in a backyard just a stone throw away from the Tivoli Gardens closed day 2 of the CPHFW. Just before the show start it looked like the rain was going to fall on the band's instruments. The sun eventually appeared and the brand Sunflower's signature wardrobe of contemporary menswear appeared balancing on the elevated podium yet understated, with an intelligent design and a respect for tailoring traditions.
The label is designed in Copenhagen by a collective of menswear authorities who grew frustrated with passing fads and fashion trends changing with each season.
Sunflower represents a yearning for something more lasting, real clothes made for men's daily lives. The method of production is as valued as the final product, with an insistence on sourcing the best quality fabrics, technical innovation and construction by skilled craftsmen. Sunflower prioritisez creating long-lasting products by employing best practices in material selection and collaborating with skilled manufacturers. They meticulously source and utilize premium quality materials known for their durability and sustainability, ensuring that their garments withstand the test of time.
Nicklas Skovgaard's debut show
Nicklas Skovgaard SS24 show is based on the relationship between danish painter Gerda Wegener and her wife Lili Elbe. Collaborating with performance artist Britt Liberg for his debut show of Collection 07, Nicklas Skovgaard works with Britt Liberg as, "being the ultimate muse for the collection" he adds, Britt is the only real model among 16 naturalistic mannequins. Skovgaard created the collection whilst imagining how Britt Liberg as the ultimate muse would paint a picture of collection 07; how she interacts with the mannequins during her performance whilst dressing and undressing, being in movement and standing still, wearing garments in new and subverted ways.
Photocredit Tonya Matyu.
“Back in early Spring when I started working on what I envisioned for my debut show for Collection 07, I immediately knew that I wanted it to be a collaboration between Amsterdam-based performance artist Britt Liberg and myself. ... She presents the dreamlike state and fantasy that clothes can inspire in very real setting being my first fashion show.” Key pieces are hand-woven short jackets with zippers. Hand-woven pieces featuring ostrich feather trim. Lace dresses with belt straps. Heavily draped jersey dresses and skirts. Off-shoulder jersey dresses with smocked lambskin leather. @
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