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Co-Ed Spring/Summer 2024 Collection by Maison Margiela in Paris takes star guests like Paris Jackson and Jared Leto to and a naval voyage across periods and continents.
By Nermin A.
Maison Margiela investigates how generational adaption of an inherited clothing reflects individual reality. We are invited to a naval narrative part of the Maison’s ongoing chronicle of the imagined characters Count and Hen.
Spring-summer 2024 Women’s Fashion Show Collection, look 7. © Maison Margiela– All rights reserved
With his innovative and disruptive style of thinking, creative director John Galliano has not only incorporated decades of studying fashion history into this narrative, but he is also utilising it in order to alter and push the boundaries of what is traditional and what is the modern way of dressing.
Guest attending the show were met by one of Gallianos favorite naval themes paired with mauvais garçons "projected imagery of a transatlantic ship towering over the roofs of a twentieth-century English port city. On its passage to America, an adolescent meeting between the parents of Count and Hen unfolds: one, the son of an impoverished aristocratic line; the other, the daughter of an industrial family of pretense." The narrative is brought to live by incredible cast of models who interpret the collection's atmosphere with its air of steely climate; born aboard a cargo between traveling trunks full of clothes that will be reinterpreted and upcycled by the new generations. The question is not how we adapt clothes over time—the emphasis is put on the irreversibility of the process of modification and generational advancement—thus the collection introduces a new technique of pressage of dresses and shirts, while Galliano opts to rip away the top layer of the bustier to reveal its laminated construction, with a relief effect across drapes and creases!
Galliano rejects the existing quo because in his universe, the line between opposites is less rigid. The collection features a range of distinctive styles, each embellished with notions from various time periods and mindsets to express the contemporary originality of the individual and how it adapts to the complexity of social reality in time. This seems like the perfect collection for artists and stars, notably front-row guests Paris Jackson, Jared Leto
Seemingly contradicting collection features dresses customized with tape or work-in-progress stitching, juxtaposed to the Maison’s Rorschach cutting, or the adaptation of masculine wardrobe with the delicacy of the feminine wardrobe, culminates in coats underpinned with sculptural basques. New Tabi brogues and Tabi spectator shoes are interpreted in several ways. Deck shoes nod at the narrative’s premise. Shopping bags, bowling bags, and vase bags adapt the Rorschach dots, while hats mimic mid-century shapes through naïve construction. Galliano masterfully sums up the intercontinental voyage and converges different times.
Celebrities
Paris Jackson
Jared Leto
Jun Gong
Rafael Pavarotti
Maison Margiela SS24 Renzo Rosso and Arianna Alessi
Jennifer Grace
Jordan Barrett
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