HAUTE COUTURE
Daniel Roseberry, as Artistic Director at Maison Schiaparelli, masters the surrealist expression that the founder proposed almost 100 years ago when the Maison was founded in Paris. The dramatic Fall 2023 Couture presentation was moved from its intimate salons at 21, Place Vendôme, to a bigger stage in the city, which seems appropriate now for a brand that is worn by some of the world's biggest artists at the world's greatest stages.
The Fall 2023 couture show’s grandiosity is not just felt in the venue but in the exaggerated executed coats, collars, and humor, but in a good way. Clearly, the designer had a lot of fun creating this collection, as did models wearing it, unable to hide a smile as they walked calmly down the catwalk. A collection largely kept in black and white adorned with golden details seems more mature than ever, yet don’t expect to find nun-like discipline in cuts like the couture style that Elsa Schiaparelli’s contemporary Coco Chanel was famous for.
© Schiaparelli.com.
Roseberry's approach is the opposite, exploring the concepts of fluidity and movement. Made for a woman who lives passionately and wears her heart on her sleeve, as symbolically depicted by the indigo painted model, where an asymmetrical indigo blue skirt is the only garment on the model, as a big heart-shaped leaf barely covers the indigo painted breast, it reminds me of a look from the fall 2022 couture, where the model's breast is adorned with a finely crafted red lacquered anatomical heart pendant with rhinestones, held by a thin necklace, Schiaparelli.com.
By N. Ahmet
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