Daniel Roseberry, as Artistic Director at Maison Schiaparelli, masters the surrealist expression that the founder proposed almost 100 years ago when the Maison was founded in Paris.
By Nermin A.
The dramatic Fall 2023 couture look with its dreamy puffed silhouette was narrowed to small-waisted suits and elegant dresses for the Spring RTW collection just presented in the Maison's intimate salons at 21 Place Vendôme. But there is a twist to the Parisian elegance that the collection narrates, with the brand's first sneakers introduced on the runway. Sportwear seems appropriate now for a brand that is worn by some of the world's biggest and youngest artists at the world's greatest stages. Most of the American celebrities who wear Schiaparelli are well below their 30s, and their lifestyle does not require that many day suits yet.
© Schiaparelli
Roseberry's touch of American old glamour in this collection will undoubtedly appeal to his many American clients, including front-row seated actress Regina King and beauty mogul Kylie Jenner, whose sister Roseberry sends on a catwalk in a glamorous 60s-inspired look and a shoulderless, bright red dress.
Can Schiaparelli mix sportswear with Parisian chic and the surreal, disruptive approach to fashion that the brand is renown for? Can jumbo keyhole dresses, cut like shoulderless boleros, featuring gold embellishment and other freaky accessories and finishes, be paired with golden-capped baseball trainers (welded with the outline of toes and nails included)? Elsa in her time could succeed with the iconic lobster dress; and clearly the brand can today build on this success and much more.
The times are today arguably more surreal, and we live in a surreal border between the physical and digital worlds than when the brand was founded a century ago. I believe that Schiaparelli takes all these facts and adapts them to their vision of the contemporary surreal lifestyle, where chic and leisure merge and the seemingly opposite unites.
Shalom Harlow went pantless in a strong-shouldered black jacket and a “Pulp Fiction” wig, while Kendall Jenner, her hair teased into a major bouffant, was molded into a bustier dress covered in red fake nails..
See also Haute Couture by Schiaparelli.
Haute Couture fall Winter 2023/2024 all images courtesy of © Schiaparelli.com.
The Fall 2023 couture show’s grandiosity is not just felt in the venue but in the exaggerated executed coats, collars, and humor, but in a good way. Clearly, the designer had a lot of fun creating this collection, as did models wearing it, unable to hide a smile as they walked calmly down the catwalk. A collection largely kept in black and white adorned with golden details seems more mature than ever, yet don’t expect to find nun-like discipline in cuts like the couture style that Elsa Schiaparelli’s contemporary Coco Chanel was famous for.
© Schiaparelli.com.
Roseberry's approach is the opposite, exploring the concepts of fluidity and movement. Made for a woman who lives passionately and wears her heart on her sleeve, as symbolically depicted by the indigo painted model, where an asymmetrical indigo blue skirt is the only garment on the model, as a big heart-shaped leaf barely covers the indigo painted breast, it reminds me of a look from the fall 2022 couture, where the model's breast is adorned with a finely crafted red lacquered anatomical heart pendant with rhinestones, held by a thin necklace, Schiaparelli.com.
By N. Ahmet
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