Former Browns CEO Simon Burstein presents his latest project - Leathersmith of London - at Pitti Uomo 104, combining exquisite artisanal bookbinding with the fashion entrepreneur’s vision for contemporary menswear.
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From June 13-16, Simon Burstein will be formally presenting his latest fashion and design venture -
Leathersmith of London - to the international menswear audience at Pitti Uomo 104 in the Fortezza da
Basso, Florence. Leathersmith of London is a truly unique proposition in the menswear space, grown
from the luxury small leather goods space, and evolving to include at its core a contemporary menswear
collection.
From South Molton Street to Canvey Island, Essex
After a hugely successful career building Browns (1970-1982 and 2008-2015 - his parents’ iconic South
Molton Street stores) into a globally recognised fashion emporium, and in between heading Sonia Rykiel
in Paris (1985-2007), the next chapter of Simon Burstein’s business story sees the entrepreneur
amalgamate his passion for menswear, books and stationery, as he announces the relaunch of Charfleet
Bookbindery on Canvey Island in the Thames Estuary, as well as the contemporary menswear and
heritage brand, Leathersmith of London, which has been making diaries and journals since 1839.
“When I sold Browns in 2015 to Farfetch, I had no idea I would end up owning a bindery business, but a
series of serendipitous events combined with an unrealised love of artisanal bookmaking has led to
where we are today, opening a brand-new state-of-the-art bindery facility on Canvey Island, saving a
number of uniquely skilled roles, and relaunching a 184-year-old British Brand.”
Bound by a love of craft
T.J & J Smith was founded in 1839 (now under the name of Charfleet Bookbindery) and specialises in the
production of stunning bespoke diaries, journals, notebooks, and leatherbound goods.
In the 1950s, Edward Dudley Smith, who was the grandnephew of TJ & J Smith, travelled all over the
United States to promote the Leathersmith of London brand and was so successful that he established
offices in New York. He wore a bowler hat, carried an umbrella and looked like a traditional Englishman.
The business was sold to H.Neale in 1987 who had built a bindery on Canvey Island after the Second
World War. When the business went into administration in 2015, Burstein stepped in to acquire it,
retaining the skilled artisan workforce (most of whom have two decades of experience) and moving
them into new state-of-the-art premises on Canvey Island, to be officially opened by HRH The Duchess
of Edinburgh on 27 th June 2023.
A heritage brand reborn
Burstein first discovered the heritage stationer Leathersmith of London not long after having his passion
for stationery was sparked by opening the first ever Filofax franchise shop during his tenure there in
Paris. Then, as now, it specialises in beautiful, handcrafted diaries, journals and desk accessories.
However, Burstein has ambitions to evolve Leathersmith of London into a lifestyle brand, firstly with a
range of stylish and practical bags and small leather goods to be shown at Pitti Uomo in this June’23,
and then featuring a relaxed and modern menswear collection informed by his many decades of
experience working with some of the most talented designers in the world.
“Despite being a heritage brand and existing for the best part of two centuries, when I discovered
Leathersmith of London, it was largely unknown. It has given me the opportunity to do what I love the
most, which is building brands, and so what is going to be really exciting is taking a business with such a
long and storied history, and evolving it into a modern lifestyle proposition, all the while retaining its
leather goods heritage.”
Back to Simon’s (The) Place London - retail concept
Central to Burstein’s vision for the Charfleet Bookbindery and Leathersmith of London are his retail
stores, The Place London (a menswear and womenswear store a couple of doors down from each other)
in Connaught Village and replicated in Paris in the heart of St Germain.
The Place sees Burstein back in familiar territory, going back to his roots building a novel retail
experience that showcases for women emerging fashion talent of any age and nationality, and for men,
an incubator of artisanal craftsmanship under the Leathersmith of London brand.
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