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  • Snow, Sun & Glamour Galore at The Snow Polo World Cup St. Moritz 2023

    Snow, Sun & Glamour Galore at The Snow Polo World Cup St. Moritz 2023: Exhilarating first day at the world’s oldest snow polo tournament.

  • Dior Couture show gathers Royalty and VVIPs

    Dior show took place on Monday at museum Rodin in Paris. Carla Bruni. All images courtesy of Dior. Fendi On Day 4 of Paris Fashion Week, Kim Jones, Fendi Artistic Director of Couture and Womenswear, showcases the techniques and craft of couture. Presented in a white space bathed in bright light, the collection transforms an inner world into an external one. Négligé looks flirt with eveningwear. Reversible embroidered coats reveal shoulders. The savoir-faire of Fendi ateliers is expressed in the lightness of wafting muslin veils. Draped directly on the body, bustiers and lace reveal underwear, lending a sense of sculptural to the gowns, while luxe climbing carabiners tether pleats with virtuoso nonchalance. Gloves envelop hands like leather chainmail, and asymmetrical pearl earrings bring a theatrical allure to the gowns. Like a summer storm in the evening, a palette of cloud grey, bright white, powdery pink and metallic silver elevate delicately subtle couture.

  • artgenève art fair partners with Gübelin Jewellery again

    In conjunction with the artgenève art fair, Gübelin Jewellery will be presenting the Royal Allure cocktail ring together with their latest art collaboration. Nikolai Winter. Art Collaboration 2023 with Gübelin Jewellery at artgenève. All images courtesy of Gübelin Jewellery. Inspired by the inner world of a sapphire, the jewellery designers created the sculptural cocktail ring. Swiss artist Nikolai Winter om then went on to interpret and transform this multi-faceted jewellery piece into a series of new art piece. Both works of art from Gübelin Jewellery and Nikolai Winter interpret haute joaillerie, each in their own métier. The Royal Allure cocktail ring presents an interplay of colours and shapes, contrasts and common elements. This is the first time that Gübelin Jewellery has created a piece to be worn as a two-finger ring. Cocktail ring The Royal Allure cocktail ring is inspired by the inner world of a Burmese sapphire of 7 ct (94 Gübelin Points), which Gübelin Gem Lab also awarded the designation “Royal Blue”. The sculptural cocktail ring with the iconic ruby from Gübelin Jewellery consists of a classical platinum solitaire ring as well as a creative two-finger ring of yellow gold. This allows the jewellery to be worn in three different ways: as a cocktail ring, artfully combining both rings, as a classical sapphire solitaire ring or separately as a modern two-finger ring. Solitaire ring An impressive sapphire glistens at the centre of the solitaire ring, whose fascinating inner world inspired Gübelin Jewellery designers to create Royal Allure. With the aid of a microscope, they immersed themselves deep into the gemstone, where they discovered geometric structures that reminded them of inflorescences on a rosewood plant. Rosewood is the national flower of Burma (Myanmar). The stately solitaire ring, artistically set in the tradition of Gübelin Jewellery with baguette-cut diamonds, a slender brilliant-cut diamond pavé as well as pear-shape sapphires, exudes shimmering light refractions, individuality and refinement. Two-finger ring The creative two-finger ring is a premiere for Gübelin Jewellery: This is the first time they have presented this modern style of finger adornment, translating it directly into the world of haute joaillerie. Two-finger rings are highly fashionable and enjoy a great deal of popularity, but they are very rarely set with high-grade gemstones. In Gübelin Jewellery’s own atelier in Lucerne, creative minds bring together the highest artisanship, unique language of design and colourful gemstones to create an overall work of art. The ring is a homage to the national flower of Burma: rosewood. As a reference to the delicate, radiant yellow blossoms and slender green twigs, the Gübelin Jewellery atelier chose yellow sapphires and tsavorites in finely gradated shades of green for the two-finger ring. It is also set with diamonds, which radiate light and a sense of ease. Yellow sapphires and marquise shape diamonds symbolise the rosewood in full bloom, framed by entourages set with more yellow sapphires and brilliant-cut diamonds, outlining the shape of the blossoms. As a tribute to the splendid yellow flowers, the two-finger ring is made of yellow gold. Yellow gold jewellery is gaining more and more attention, especially in exciting combinations like this cocktail ring, which artfully combines and highlights yellow gold and platinum. The tsavorites are set in a slender pavé thread along the organically curved ring band, which covers two fingers, along with the characteristic ruby in a cabochon cut. The cocktail ring delights with an interplay of colours and shapes, commonalities and contrasts. Gübelin Jewellery is renowned for its mastery of coloured gemstones as well as its high level of expertise and experience. The designers combine a deep understanding of both their art and their craft in arranging coloured gems in exciting colour combinations, bringing together complimentary colours to create a harmonious composition. Standing out against the faceted gradated shades of green of the tsavorites, the iconic Gübelin Jewellery ruby in cabochon cut creates an exciting contrast. At the same time, the ruby highlights the way the two-finger ring is worn by underscoring the dynamic of the curved ring band, which offers the wearer perfect comfort. In addition, the solitaire ring nestles perfectly into the organic design of the two-finger ring to combine the two rings so they can be worn as a cocktail ring. For the classic solitaire ring, the designers chose a platinum setting whose cooler colour shade goes well with the blue of the sapphire. Worn in combination with the two-finger ring and as a cocktail ring, the Burmese sapphire lends a further facet by entering into delightful plays of colour with the complementary yellow of the sapphire and the yellow shade of the gold. Prominently placed, the iconic ruby, glistens along the side of the solitaire ring setting. The ruby is known as the King of Gemstones and is associated with love and passion. At the same time, it symbolises Gübelin Jewellery’s passion for coloured gemstones. Raphael Gübelin, President of the House of Gübelin, explains: “In our art collaborations, we emphasise the creative exchange, interpretation and inspiration – very much in keeping with our Deeply Inspired philosophy. Our jewellery atelier created the sculptural Royal Allure cocktail ring, which Nikolai Winter interpreted, finding inspiration to create his own work of art. Both works of art engage in a discussion of jewellery and add new facets to the topic.” Nikolai Winter Upon interpreting the cocktail ring, the Swiss artist was inspired to create a further work of art. In doing so, he concentrated on the characteristic language of forms of the solitaire ring and translated it into his art. The classically designed ring with a central stone also contains the iconic ruby, the trade mark of Gübelin Jewellery, present in the ring setting. Nikolai Winter transports the ring into a new context by vacuum-sealing it. He concentrates on the essence of the ring while exaggerating it at the same time. Nikolai Winter: “Like the House of Gübelin, I am convinced that luxury does not only lie in owning an object. Rather, you have to understand its essence, like its interior as well as its exterior in equal measure, and only then, one will learn to appreciate it. With my series of vacuumed work of art ‘Luxury Goods’, I want to bring attention to how the body and soul of a luxurious object are captured and preserved. The material value transitions into an emotional value to be preserved.” Luxury Goods His latest artwork is part of his “Luxury Goods” cycle. In viewing these works, observers enter into a relationship to the luxury objects by seeing their own reflections in the shining mirrored surfaces. The outlines of the vacuum-packed luxury objects are visible and recognisable despite the veil concealing them. Nikolai Winter packages icons of luxury and everyday life. Here he pursues questions of identity and status, sustainability and the zeitgeist of society’s consumer culture. His works are influenced by Pop Art and address themes such as the essence and longevity of luxury objects. The shimmering chrome foil around his works of art lends them an aura of timelessness. Nikolai Winter was also in charge of the booth design and presentation. Just as the cocktail ring plays with colours, shapes, contrasts and commonalities, Nikolai Winter used these effects to set the scene. He presents the photomicrography of the sapphire in black and white, perpetuating the theme of contrasts. At the same time, the photomicrography is on display in its original colouration together with design sketches and gouaches of the cocktail rings. The blue floor covering is further nod to the “Royal Blue” sapphire as a source of inspiration. The Gübelin Jewellery atelier embodies authenticity and celebrates the highest level of artisanship. To illustrate this, a wooden stool and its accompanying tools used to forge and create the ring are placed on display. Nikolai Winter picked up on this topic and created five further objects, which interpret and illustrate the individual facets of the tools along with the two-finger ring, wrapping them in chrome foil packaging. Royal Blue Two words that cause the hearts of gemstone connoisseurs to beat faster: “Royal Blue”. This is of course the trade name reserved for the highest grade of sapphires in naturally intense, homogeneous and saturated shades of blue. The term was originally coined to describe the highest-quality Burmese sapphires. Such a high-carat example forms the centrepiece of the Royal Allure ring. The quality of this impressive sapphire is also reflected in the Gübelin Gemstone Rating, which describes the quality, rarity and salience with 94 Gübelin Points, giving it the designation “outstanding”. Burmese sapphires are highly sought after, rare and known for their deep, saturated shades of blue. Adding to their naturally limited availability is the fact that Gübelin Jewellery currently only selects gems from Burma (Myanmar) which were exported before February 2021. Deeply Inspired The House of Gübelin’s Deeply Inspired philosophy pervades all aspects of the company’s activities. It is based on a unique combination of beauty, knowledge and expertise, always pursuing a deeper understanding of the profession, in tribute to the family’s pioneering spirit. To symbolise this philosophy, each piece of Gübelin Jewellery contains a ruby. It is considered the King of Gemstones and stands for passion and love. The iconic hallmark of Gübelin Jewellery also stands for the Gübelin family’s passion for coloured gemstones. artgenève Gübelin Jewellery is once again a partner of the artgenève art fair, an established institution on the Swiss art scene. The international fair offers a broad spectrum of modern and contemporary art. The personal atmosphere promotes exchange between art aficionados and exhibitors. The art collaboration is on display from 26th to 29th January at the Palexpo in Geneva. During the four-day artgenève fair, art fans can discover the both the Royal Allure cocktail ring from Gübelin Jewellery and Nikolai Winter’s art piece.

  • Boucheron High Jewellery Spring Summer 2023

    Discover the new Histoire de Style Like a Queen, High Jewelry collection Boucheron

  • International Property Show Dubai, February 2023

    IPS is happening between 12th - 14th February, at Dubai World Trade Center, Dubai, United Arab Emirates. All images: www.internationalpropertyshow.ae The highly anticipated event IPS: Another Journey is yet to come. Gear up to invest in the future. IPS 2023 extends you the opportunity to showcase your real estate offerings & project launches to thousands of eager investors gathered from all over the world in one place. IPS is the main event that facilitates the encounter between viable investors and significant partners while receiving brand exposure and growing your business further. Taking part in IPS enables participants to join a bundle of activities that will provide you with access to the most relevant and accurate real estate insights and knowledge. “We assure you, you will appreciate this experience!” - IPS organisers. Book your stand A few highlights of this year’s edition An accommodating scheme provided to exhibitors with more cost- effective and flexible exhibition space while keeping stand construction costs to the minimum bar. Investor-focused real estate conference with speakers from investment companies, development businesses and industry specialists. Programs to attract international investors such as the International Investment Delegation Program, and the YPN Congress, plus invitations for international real estate associations. Extensive media coverage with more than 35+ media partners broadcasting the exhibition milestones throughout the event journey.

  • Zuhair Murad and Valentino show triumphant Spring-Summer 2023 Haute Couture

    Front row: Hala Reda at Zuhair Murad show. By Liliya Tippetts The Zuhair Murad Haute Couture spring-summer 2023 Collection draws inspiration from the dexterous architectural details from the Belle Époque—paired with the reckless spirit of the seventies. The show notes stated, "The mood of the collection is centered around nights on the streets of the most mythical bay in the world, young women frolic on Vespa's,..., hair disciplined in straw hats or large silk scarves,... sometimes floating in the wind...". Bringing the breeze of contemporary looks and the rich and dramatic color palettes of Cote d'Azur sunsets, the collection goes from bright pink to flame orange, with statement pieces in pale green, Caribbean blue, and fading yellow. Zuhair Murad Spring-Summer 2023 Couture collection. All show images courtesy of Zuhair Murad. Murad's collection is made with carefully chosen materials and textiles. The finest silk is used throughout the collection. Looks in cady, tulle, chiffon, taffeta, satin, jersey, or chiffon create flowy, yet constructed silhouettes, adorned with intricate cuts and embroidery on daywear and eveningwear for a woman who is ready for triumph. Zuhair Murad transports us to another universe of mysterious hidden sun-soaked bays, picking up on last spring's maritime explorer theme and the grandeur of the age of navigating the high seas. The designer has envisioned the spring/summer 2023 collection as a heroine of the Art Deco style with defined bold silhouettes and, often, extremely sparkly and sequined looks. As the show progressed, the Belle Époque theme became more evident in the majestic dresses fit for grandiose chateau events. Notably, Murad's Mariee appears to be an homage to the epoque of grandeur, when the centuries collide. The macramé-adorned wedding dress is unlike anything the designer has previously shown, and its purity is in contrast to many other highly embellished outfits, nevertheless, it got a well deserved applause. Reflecting on the history of macramé-style knots , known from the carvings of the Babylonians and Assyrians, the finale underlines the designer's masterful touch; paying hommage to the tradition while keeping his mind in the present. This seemingly effortless pairing is the reason for Zuhair Murad's international popularity and the reason why his dresses are so well-suited for red carpets in LA, French Riviera parties, or wedding ceremonies of dynasties. Murad's couture looks do not replicate history; rather, his couture proposes casual elegance that captures the freedom and all the modern opportunities of the contemporary era. Titled "Exquisite Dynasty," the collection is the ultimate lineup of looks that invite a comeback to the dance floors. After the past few years of navigating restrictions, we are ready to make summer 2023 full of celebrating events that don't get canceled. Guests attending Zuhair Murad show: From right Ms Samanzar Khan, Mrs Keke Olisemeka, Mrs Ella Peters, Mrs Fawzia Khan, Ms Ayesha Khan LTR: Liliya Tippetts, fashion designer, and @gessicakayane Brazilian actress and comedian, she was featured on the Brazilian edition of Forbes' Under 30 list for 2020. LTR: Maja Malnar and Liliya Tippetts. Valentino ends the day with sustainability angle Images courtesy Valentino. On the occasion of its Haute Couture SS23 show, Valentino Le Club Couture, the Maison collaborates with La Réserve des Arts, a French nonprofit organization founded in 2008 with the aim of supporting the circular economy applied to the creative sector, with its many facets and interlocutors. At the heart of the work of the organization is the salvaging of sets, props and visual merchandising products to which it gives new life, offering them to a Community made up of over 10,000 members, students and art professionals who can buy them for their own creative work. The impossibility of Haute Couture - an expansion of the imagination, a space beyond reason. Couture is a sphere of fantasy and freedom, of the unique and exceptional, where craft is not a fetishistic reflection of value but a means and methodology to achieve improbabilities, to challenge perceptions, to create bold new realities. Fabric becomes a chiaroscuro across the body, volumes float, cuts are imperceptible, a ribbon of chiffon may suspend a ball gown. The unbelievable becomes material, imagination becomes real. Harnessed to this fundamental virtue of Haute Couture, Creative Director Pierpaolo Piccioli conceives an impossible rendez-vous, between the universes of Couture and the club. Perceived polarities can provoke dialogue, another impossibility: a synergetic, spontaneous language is found between the lexicon of Couture and the world of nightclubbing. Their shared values: mutual gestures of extravagance, the notion of clothes as tools of transformation, crafting a true self, a dichotomous yet dual vocabulary of display and revelation, performance through life. And, above all, a plurality of beauty, beauty as individuality, a heroic expression of inner truth made outer. Fashioning a dream - the opportunity to become. Shifting perception and perspective, context is altered - Couture is presented within new environs, as emphasis to this essential exchange. There is a symbiosis between the characters of the club and the imprimatur of Maison Valentino, boldness conveyed through colour and graphic pattern, embellishment and volume. Volant ruffles invent new architectures around bodies, polka-dots and stripes are reinterpreted through cut, forming two dimensions from three. Couture tropes are challenged through their celebration, embroideries and hand-drapes, pale pink feathers knotted with black satin bows. A play with scale magnifies details, to resonate. The glamour of Valentino is resignified, reflective of the self-expression of a new generation. And within the egalitarian arena of the club, Couture itself transmutes ideologically: here it may become democratic, a proposition of universal enjoyment, a symbol of emotional resonance. The sign value of Haute Couture is thus transformed - Couture becomes an emblem of uniqueness, personality, identity and character, and an evocation of the purest human joy of dressing and dressing up. Rami Al Ali All images courtesy of RAMI AL ALI. On the same day, Rami Al Ali unveiled his spring/summer 2023 couture collection, imbued with timeless Hellenic aesthetics and proposing his collection of contemporary femininity against the background of inspiration taken from Greek mythology and one of its oldest fables, "The Golden Fleece," the fleece being a symbol of authority and kingship. The Hellenic inspiration is also seen in the majestic draping that the designer pairs with his signature palette of pastel tones. Softest shades of blue, mist green, lavender, champagne beige, and blush pink are tastefully adorned with details in silver and gold. Rami Al Ali's vision of ancient Greek art and splendor is transformed into a spectacular line-up of one-of-a-kind couture creations in silk organza, satins, mousseline, and brocade. To add even more vitality to his silk sculptures as he enriches them with historical Greek references, the designer adds intricate, embroidery motifs, handwoven with the finest gold and silver threads, and even gold embossing. The effect of these on the observer is dazzling. Rami Al Ali's extraordinary vision becomes clearer as the collection progresses, with his signature couture techniques allowing for more room for movement and dancing, as well as less constrained silhouetting. Rami Al Ali in Paris.

  • Golden touch of Midas in Paris

    Haute couture collections spring summer 2023 - day 2 started with Alexis Mabille that opens with a golden show aptly located at renowned auction house Christie's. But there were more golden moments on the day 2 of Paris Fashion Week, from Stéphane Rolland's golden hour inspired haute couture to Celia Kritharioti's vision of Greek sun and alluring shimmers, to the creations by Ronald van der Kemp and more this day. For his Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2023, Alexis Mabille presents one of his boldest shows in terms of playfulness and uncompromisingly couture collections consisting of 36 undeniably powerful and youthful looks. Long backless sheath dress in embroidered organza with multicolored patterns, rectangle top. The theme "Color Addict" is fully represented with a diverse colour palette and the attention is on draping, Mabille's favourite Hellenic silhouette is perfectly presented in colours that range from bright gold to dusty olive. Other looks feature well tailored pointy shoulders with wide floor length dress, another classic Mabille silhouette. However this time the designer refrains from embroidery using it very rarely and letting the outfits and colours speak their own language - a couture poetry. Asymmetrical neckline dress in golden mesh, rolled up at the shoulder. Mabille's show, like the défilé's soundtrack is always upbeat, and this vibe is translated bymodels that swayed their way down Christie's Paris premises-just a stone's throw from the Champs-Elysees. Set in the triangle of fine art galleries and auction houses, this Parisian corner is where Mabille's clients feel at home, the front-row guests included artists including Ellen von Unwerth, Sasha Ray, and many others. Mabille's line depicts a timeless lady who prefers elegance to comfort in an extended, frequently Greek-inspired style. Whether it's an hourglass-shaped long cardigan that becomes a dress or a short dress with structured shoulders, Mabille is known for lines that are innately feminine, timeless, trend-proof, and well-tailored. Due to the use of renowned Lyonese lace. Mabille's couture is known for its lightness, but the woman who wears it is known for blending delicate fabrics and embroidery, with finishes, such as on floor-length silk gowns adorned with Chantilly lace. Stéphane Rolland's golden hour haute couture After almost a hour of delay Stéphane Rolland show started, fashionably too late as some photographers started to get impatient. However the 50 min delay was worth waiting because Rolland present nothing else than the pure exquisite haute couture of gold gowns or pure white and rich chocolate looks masterfully draped around the body. The front-row guests, including Baroness Marina von Lison, Dr Mahsa Nejati, and the Hungs, were transformed from Paris’ Théâtre de Chaillot to glowing movie-like setting inspired by Marcel Camus’ Oscar-winning film “Black Orpheus,” an adaptation of the Greek myth of Orpheus and Eurydice, set in a favela in Rio de Janeiro during Carnaval. Rolland's show was presented in three parts, featuring snow white series of looks that were followed by black looks and finally grand final with golden looks. Rolland's mariée inspired by Brazil's patron saint, Nossa Senhora da Conceição Aparecida. In 2022 Rolland marked 15 years of his haute couture house, and again returns to the runway with his eternal muse Nieves Álvarez by his side. Large jewelry pieces, such as bracelets and earrings, in metal, sculpted wood and gemstones — including emeralds, jade and malachite—were worn with many looks. First Sunshine is Julien Fournié's most genuine display of his love to Haute Couture The French fashion industry's governing authority, the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, gave Fournié full official status as a Haute Couture label for a reason, and this show demonstrates why. This is a protected label in France that only a select number of houses worldwide are permitted to use. He demonstrates with this new collection why couture is his great love and how its beauty can influence the world. He draws inspiration from the natural beauty of places like the West Indies and the Balearic Islands, which are mentioned in his notes, as well as from locations where his international clientele can be seen sporting his creations. His hopes for unity and celebration as soon as the first beam of sunlight, Julien always designs with the aim to preserve the natural purity and the innocence of childhood. His work gives the opportunity to reveal how women have always, against all odds, sought to free themselves from the shackles imposed by the society. Julien describes how his inspiration came to him trough blessing of many fairies. For an example it is fairy Emmanuelle who draws him towards Lyon region with its finest textiles and lacework; then Fairy Aya, who comforted him the knowledge of the variety of embroidery techniques of India; and not to forget the fairy who helped to find an elegant Parisian setting to present his vision, after past presentations in an imposing Parisian cathedral. The fairy godmothers had also woken up to whisper to Julien: „The dream that Your desire will come true," show notes state and this collection does it justice. "First Sunshine" Haute Couture collection spring-summer 2023. All images ©Julien Fournié Ronald van der Kemp's show invites to a diplomatic discussion The Dutch designer’s summer 2023 couture show was presented at the residence of the Dutch Ambassador, in Paris. And the show is the key word here, forget about the stiff neck black tie dinner suits and dress. Van der Kemp’s exuberance is as sharp as ever and inspired by rock and roll and glamour of the 1970ies. Not that he does not make classical looks, like the elegant pink elongated look or a black coat dress with gold buttons, but the vibe is a lot of glamour and drama for men's looks too, like a lamé opera coat and a chain link dress with lozenges of patent leather. And as the designer invites to a discussion on how we consume and wear clothes the diplomatic premisses were quiet appropriate. Most importantly, what distinguishes Van der Kemp couture from other Maisons is his passion for sustainability and recycling of materials. He uses vintage scraps and bolts of fabric he’s accumulated over years. Or as in some looks, where he adds several handbags around the model's torso as a leather top, practical and unique. The Netherlands is one of the frontier countries to be affected by the climate change and the discourse on sustainability is much more advanced compared to other European nations. Thanks to talents like Van der Kemp, more people will appreciate how explicitly fun it can be to pair couture with sustainable design. All photo: Marijke Aerden / Courtesy of RVDK Ronald Van Der Kemp Couture Spring - Summer '23 | Celia Kritharioti transport us to enchanted tropical rainforest Couture Spring - Summer '23 show by Celia Kritharioti was literally made to resemble an untouched tropical summer paradise with rich vegetation and even a fine sculptured runway with African sand, flowers and plants, all carefully arranged in the front row where guests like Anna Dello Russo, Law Roach, Gessica Kayane, Sasha Ray, Liliya Tippets mingled with artists and friends of the oldest Couture House in Greece. Later they all gathered for an afterparty at stylish Café Lapérouse at Hôtel de la Marine, Place de la Concorde, just a stone's throw away from the show venue. Celia's collection certainly emanates refined art. The stunning color palette runs from vibrant oranges, greens, and yellows to earthy browns, corals, mints, scarlets, and dark reds. It also includes expertly hand-embroidered cocktail dresses, gowns, jackets, mini dresses, and kaftans that echo the heritage of the oldest Couture House in Greece. Animal prints and hand-painted taffetas genuinely honor the essence of couture. But this extends in more ways to more than just the clothes. Each piece of handcrafted jewelry that completes a look is a tribute to feminine elegance and attractiveness. "There is a oneness in the universe, we cannot exist without respect, without empathy, and without humility," Celia Kritharioti Vaishali S - marks 1 year as the first Indian female designer to present at Paris Haute Couture Week Vaishali’s ‘Abyss’ collection for Paris Haute Couture Week 2023 is made with carefully chosen yarn from remote villages across India. These threads are then woven into the finest metallic silk which was used throughout the collection. The collection is made up of flowing fabrics or yarn that are knitted into unusual shapes that reflect the designer's artistic impression of an abyss. "We don’t use any printing. All our fabrics are handwoven on the traditional double shuttle loom" Vaishali told me after the show that was held in heart of Paris, at the elegant Carrousel du Louvre. Stunningly the pattern that occurs on the silk garments is not a result of cleaver design or planing, but emerges naturally from this weaving process. This is only one of the many unique beauties about Vaishali’s handmade garments. "We use many weaves from all over India." Vaishali’s background as scientist who turned couture designer has led her on a research and discovery across India, seeking and exploring the ancient villages renowned for their traditional looms and weaves. Her efforts are fruitful and show in her distinctive silhouettes and contemporary couture line, but her atelier also plays a significant role in safeguarding the rare expertise of regional artisans in India and families in some of the most remote villages. "One of the first villages had only four families who had the expertise to produce the handwoven fabrics on the traditional looms, today we help to employ the entire village," she says. The collection displays an equally wide selection of yarns and silk brocade, each with their own unique look. Vaishali's unique silk fabrics are translated in asymmetrical looks that are well fitted to the body. All images courtesy of Vaishali S. Men's couture by Vaishali The final product is a form of wearable art in handwoven Indian textiles. The collection includes a mix of gowns and various artistic drapes using Vaishali’s signature textures and handwoven fabrics. Founder and designer of Vaishali S Vaishali’s ‘Abyss’ collection starts with black, depicting the deepest depths, only to give way to hues of purple, pink, green and yellow, which then finally transition into pure white – a depiction of our journey from the abyss, into the light. This is masterfully curated spring collection inspired by the hope and light seen at the end of a dark winter season. Vaishali by Phorographer Joy Strotz in Paris.

  • Haute Couture day 1, an American affair in Paris

    By Nermin Ahmet The first day of Paris haute Couture week had strong American vibe; front row occupied by American artists and celebrities like Kylie Kardashian at Schiaparelli, to Anna Wintour at Dior, where the entire theme of the collection was dedicated to Afro-American artist. But aren't runway models supposed to take all the attention? That happened at Georges Hobeika's runway. A new era for the Maison Georges Hobeika began six months ago with the Fall 2022 Couture collection presented by Co-Creative Directors Georges and Jad Hobeika. Maison Georges Hobeika spring-summer 2023 Haute Couture. All images courtesy of Georges Hobeika. Half year fast forward for their second haute couture jointly signed collection the father and son unveil Spring-summer 2023 SMALL TALKS, features more than seventy looks, which are unique as the Maison’s savoir-faire and friends. Underlying this concept is the familial collaboration between Co-Creative Directors Georges and Jad Hobeika, and the powerful link with the house’s archives that date nearly three decades back in time. Hobeikas latest collection reflects not only the Maison's values but the importance of the relationships and interactions between family and friends. To emphasise this, the show’s cast includes a number of real-life friends of the Maison, walking as couples and pairs in order to create the experience of a once-in-a-lifetime moment at Paris Fashion Week; to name a few: Leonie Hanne, Gabrielle Caunesil, Lorena Vergani, Jessica Kahawaty & her mom, Cynthia Samuel & Adam Bakri, Valentina, Ameni Esseibi, Diala Makki. Georges Hobeika features again men’s couture, affirming its place as part of the house’s DNA and appeal to the contemporary generation of couture clients. The silhouettes further reflect this sense of ease and modernity: dresses appear to float on the body, while a neckline inspired by Marie-Antoinette opts for the fresh twist of a jumpsuit shape. The ornate embroidery synonymous with the Maison’s heritage, creates magical "trompe-l’œil" effects; such as frosted water droplets, cascading diamond shapes and an ethereal burst of flowing feathers. Gold and silver chains and intricate thread embroidery evoke the links and webs between individuals. The striking colour palette features the essential yellows, pinks and blues alongside classic black and white, with plays on sheerness and contrasts. Each item in the collection is a meticulously intricate homage to the unique treasures of the Maison, translated into amazing suits and dresses by the Mains Précieuses seamstresses in the House's Beirut Atelier. Exceptional maturity, unrestricted imagination, and reverence for the illustrious Maison Georges Hobeika combined with couture savoir-faire. The couture collection recognizes that there is no "one size fits all" ideal of beauty, silhouette, or sex, while remaining faithful to the Maison's aesthetics. The season's palette flushes from Mediterranean blues to sunset tones of peachy orange, yellow, fuchsia, and pink, the Maison's signature color combination, and here too, combined with feathers and jewel-like sculptural formations of stones and crystal appliqués. Dior continues to celebrate women leaders Dior haute couture show takes place just days before Dior Couture gets a new CEO, its first female CEO, Delphine Arnault, who will take over from February's Dior Couture is already since John Galliano's departure, led by very much loved Maria Grazia Chiuri, who not only re-steers Dior towards more Italian and architectural aesthetics which characterised Dior during its Gianfranco Ferré era, but she is also the very first female Creative Director for Dior. And Chiuri does not pass on this opportunity to explore the complex imagination of a garment built for a female body. Bringing together references from the Maison’s archive as well as integrating the bright energy of the artist, Joséphine Baker, Dior is again highlighting the importance of human touch, attention to detail, and traditional savoir-faire that stands out in an increasingly virtual world. Dior Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2023. Satin robes created a déshabillé-habillé look. All runway images courtesy of Dior. Chiuri honors the image of Joséphine Baker—activist for the civil rights of Afro-Americans, humanist, and universal benefactor—in 60 haute couture looks. But not only that, contemporary artist Mickalene Thomas was invited to design the setting of the Dior Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2023 défilé, with her inspiration being "Black female role models that broke racial barriers by going against the grain and creating a new platform for others." As the défilé began, each look was strong, as if projecting not only Baker's style and artistic force but also the strength of the heterogeneous, eclectic group of thirteen phenomenal black women, depicted as giant portraits and elaborated with embroidery conceived by the Chanakya ateliers and Chanakya School of Craft across a printed textile base on the walls. Dior's Spring-Summer 2023 collection is guided by Joséphine Baker, an African-American singer and dancer who arrived from the United States in the mid-1920s in cosmopolitan Paris, a dream destination for artists. Iconic and glamorous, she embodies the modernity of those years, going beyond stereotypes and prejudices. The défilé recreates Baker's life as an artist and the rituals, like the dressing room's inspiration looks: a series of coats reminiscent of the bathrobe that hides and protects. Bar jackets and long coats may seem rather warm for the summer collection, but they pay homage to the masculine fabrics dear to Monsieur Dior. And while they are suggested only over light fabrics, like crumpled and dynamic velvet or quilted, or even light underwear, the real protagonists are satins that decline in powdery colors up to black, which are the contemporary interpretation of the outfits of the 1950s. The clothes slide over the body and caress it. There is a syncopated rhythm in silk and velvet, often with a crumpled effect, that adds vitality to the fabric. Dior's embroidery is fine for the grand stage, evening and cocktail dresses. Well-structured black and white daywear looks are mixed with silver and gold suits but predominantly saved for eveningwear. The staging of the defile, thought up by the African-American artist Mickalene Thomas, celebrates black or mixed-race female personalities, such as Josephine Baker, who have become powerful symbols by breaking down racial barriers and advancing against the tide. It reveals the deep meaning of this collection and overturns the vision of haute couture, the essence of fashion, which can become a radical gesture of awareness of one's own value and strength. "These women have broken many barriers in television, film, fashion, and social activism. It is because of their determination and sacrifices that I am able to make this work and be the artist I am today," says Mickalene Thomas. Mickalene Thomas after the Dior Show at the Musée Rodin. Maison Rabih Kayrouz's embracing couture Maison Rabih Kayrouz presents the spring-summer couture collection on the first day of Haute Couture Fashion Week, in the intimate settings of a Paris apartment. Intimacy is the keyword here, but not in an erotic sense; rather, he designs for a woman in love, and his looks seek to encompass this feeling and the intimacy of the private sphere. Rabih Kayrouz proposes a clever way to protect our privacy with oversize and comfortable vests and long capes. Clarifying this in the show notes, Kayrouz has written a poem that opens with the lyrics, "I see you draped in a coat, I see you protected, I see you embraced by your vest.“ It seems that the design was deeply inspired by the poetry of Parisian boulevards and outdoor life now, when we are finally allowed to meet in close proximity within our intime sphere. All images courtesy of maisonrabihkayrouz.com Couture coats are the next summer's trend, and were featured on several runways during the opening day of the fashion calender, and some coats looked rather warm. Rabih re-steers him towards the perfection of couture and savoir-faire. Herein lies the beauty of haute couture in that a 3/4-length coat can be perfectly wearable in summer if it is made of the right material and well cut. And his atelier's cutting techniques are impeccable. Showcasing well-tailored, clean clothes with a lot of emphasis on the cut and colors, Rabih refrains from the dazzle and sparkling sequins. As the designer explores the complex imagination of a garment built for a woman in love, he adds something perhaps more eye-catching: the energy of strong colors like burgundy and indigo, sometimes in a monotone look and sometimes well paired. The collection's colour palette not only highlights the couture craftsmanship and the great work and time spent in creating each item but also prolongs the wearability of these looks into the late fall. Maison Celestino In the spectacular setting of the Pavillon Étoile Presbourg, Maison Celestino makes a lavish comeback on the Parisian runways of haute couture. The new S/S 2023 Couture Collection from Maison Celestino, which is fully inspired by the feminine essence and elegance embodied in the alluring and enduring figure of Sibilla Aleramo, was unveiled on Monday, January 23. Maison Celestino returns to Paris, the city that welcomed Sibilla Aleramo at the turn of the century, providing her with motivation and strength for her historic battles. By tracing its stylistic path back to the pulsating soul of the cultural and literary experiences of the early twentieth century, theater for women of significant social achievements, and the affirmation of the values of freedom, the historic fashion house recreates the brand's beginnings in this collection. A collection titled "Sibilla" is well executed to enhance feminine sensuality with austere lines, sinuous skirts, shirts, and revisited tops, handmade with the historic frames of the Maison, features twenty-four dresses with a distinctive style, expressed with a fascinating accent and asymmetrical embellishments. The colors range from warm hues reminiscent of Mediterranean landscapes in vibrant tones, from green to purple, from yellow to ocher, with supporting roles for beige and gold. However, the natural nuances of the materials and their meticulous craftsmanship take center stage in true Celestine flair. The look of the models are entrusted to the hair stylist Giuseppe Scaramuzzo, the artistic direction of the event to Giovanni Scura.

  • Après-ski and delicious dining at St. Moritz Gourmet Festival

    Après-ski in St. Moritz is always special, and as of today, the world-class ski resort in the Swiss Alps is the epicenter of gourmet experiences as part of the St. Moritz Gourmet Festival, which invites guests on an après-ski upgraded journey inspired by the flavours of an 1001 Night's Gourmet experience. Tonight's Porsche Grand Opening marks the start of a series of creative culinary events, bringing delicious dining to a new level in the beautiful setting of Switzerland. All images Professor O. Mroz©️ The “Porsche Grand Opening” at the “Grand Hotel des Bains Kempinski” in St. Moritz is a fantastic opportunity to get in the mood for the nine-day Gourmet Festival. The world-class ski resort of St. Moritz, has been synonymous with glitz and glamour since the resort opened its first deluxe Hotel Kulm. Illustrious guests have included Hollywood royalty Audrey Hepburn, Marlene Dietrich and Charlie Chaplin, as well as artists, thinkers, and members of important families, royals, and nobility from all corners of the world. Professor Olga Mroz, Dame of Honour and Konstantin Zeuke, General Manager Kempinski St. Moritz at the opening ceremony of the St. Moritz Gourmet Festival St. Moritz is an alpine culinary destination in and of itself, with haute French cuisine, rustic farm fare, and Nobu menus served amid the Belle Epoque splendor of St. Moritz's deluxe hotels. Add to that 8 days of a jam-packed program. Après ski takes on a new meaning on St. Moritz's main shopping street, the world's most elevated high street, which features legendary names in fine jewellery and fashion from Cartier to Gübelin Jewellery, as well as Zegna and Stefano Ricci. One of the festival highlights takes place immediately at the beginning. The "Porsche Grand Opening" at the "Grand Hotel des Bains Kempinski" in St. Moritz is a fantastic opportunity to get in the mood for the nine-day gourmet festival. After a champagne reception, guest chefs and local chefs will serve up first samples of their diverse culinary skills at various gourmet stations in the Grand Hotel’s magnificent "Les Saisons" restaurant. At the same time there is an opportunity to meet the chefs in person. LTR: Michael Lehnort, Gen. Man. Carlton Hotel St. Moritz, Fabrizio Crespi, Executive Chef Carlton Hotel, and S. Lehnort, Carlton Hotel Guests may look forward to treats prepared by guest chefs Najat Kaanache, Sami Tamimi, Silvena Rowe, Tomer Tal and Zineb Hattab, as well as the award-winning executive Chefs from the partner hotels. First-class champagnes, wines, and spirits will accompany the food. The top chefs will represent the best of "Middle Eastern Cuisine" from European and MENA Restaurants. Following the previous festival, which brought together famous Swiss chefs in 5-star Swiss hotels for a spectacular Swiss experience under the motto "Swiss made," 2023's edition guest chefs, Michelin-starred names, and celebrity chefs will compete to seduce guest's with culinary creativity infused with tastes of Middle East. On the opening night, guests can sample different "gourmet islands," prepared by five guest chefs and the executive chef from partner Hotels will serve samples of their culinary skills. Professor Olga Mroz, Dame of Honour and Chef Rolf Fliegauf of two-Michelin-starred Ecco Ascona, Ecco St. Moritz and Ecco Zurich at the opening ceremony of the St. Moritz Gourmet Festival The magical Middle Eastern culinary experience culminates at the venerable Kulm Hotel, which put St. Moritz on the map as a winter destination. Dating from 1856, The history of winter tourism and deluxe hotels in St. Moritz can be traced to the opening of the Kulm Hotel in 1856. Its Grand Restaurant is famous for having the first electric lights in Switzerland in 1878. Thanks to this hotel, St. Moritz developed into a top ski resort over 150 years ago and remains a mecca for those who have travelled everywhere and seen everything. The St. Moritz Festival is, like everything here, unique to this resort. While other resorts have luxury hotels that invite guest chefs for the delight of their distinguished guests, the Festival is unique in that all resorts and properties work together to make this a celebration of epicurean excellence. It offers a perfect storm of glitz, glamour, and culinary perfection, all within the backdrop of one of the poshest ski resorts that the Alps has to offer. "The guest chefs of the St. Moritz Gourmet Festival 2023 unite influences of different culinary cultures in their dishes and combine traditional ingredients and preparation methods of the Orient and North Africa with modern cooking techniques of the Western world," says Fabrizio Zanetti, head chef at "Suvretta House" and culinary director . The 29th St. Moritz Gourmet Festival is inaugurated during the "Porsche Grand Opening" at the "Grand Hotel des Bains Kempinski" in St. Moritz. This stylish reception is a kickstarter to the following six evenings of exclusive gourmet dinners and gourmet safaris only interrupted by the highly anticipated intermeco and the legendary "Kitchen Party" with the master chefs available to meet guests again and surprise them with delicacies at "Badrutt's Palace". Chef Rolf Fliegauf of two-Michelin-starred Ecco Ascona, Ecco St. Moritz and Ecco Zurich Special events such as the "Fascination Champagne" and wine event with Caratello in "Suvretta House," the "Ecco Tavolata" with Rolf Fliegauf, the "Culinary H3" in Pontresina in the "Grand Hotel Kronenhof" and the "Hotel Saratz," and the "Mountain Brunch" with spectacular views at the "Paradiso" can tantalize palates.Wine enthusiasts will love the exclusive tasting event at "Waldhaus Sils" with Martel Wines St. Gallen. Chefs from Fes in the West to Dubai in the East unite in St. Moritz At hotel “Waldhaus Sils”, Chef Musa Dağdeviren from “Çiya” in Istanbul, is a guest of Executive Chef of Executive Chef Gero Porstein. Dadeviren was featured in the Netflix food documentary series "Chef's Table." His mission: with his cuisine, he wants to create a kind of food atlas of Turkey, serving dishes exclusively made with seasonal products from small producers and farmers in the region. At the "Hotel Saratz," Executive Chef Kari Walker welcomes Silvena Rowe, from Dubai, co-founder of award-winning restaurant "Omnia" in Dubai and owner of "Al Botanica," as well as the restaurants "Nassau" and "Indian Kitchen by Chef Silvena" in the prestigious golf and country club "Jumeirah Golf Estates." Haute Cuisine Chef Athanasios Kargatzidis from "Baron" in Beirut is Mauro Taufer’s guest at the "Kulm Hotel St. Moritz." Born in Greece, he grew up in Canada and studied at the renowned Dubrulle Culinary Institute in Vancouver. He developed his own culinary signature during his travels all over the world, but always refers to his Greek roots in his modern fusion cuisine. Kargatzidis co-founded the Beirut restaurant "Baron," which was ranked first in the "Middle East & North Africa's 50 Best Restaurants - Lebanon" and 12th in the "Middle East & North Africa's 50 Best Restaurants" of 2022. Tomer Tal, from "George & John" in Tel Aviv, is a guest of Executive Chef Gian Nicola Colucci at the "Grand Hotel des Bains Kempinski." Raz Rahav, from "OCD" in Tel Aviv, will cook with Executive Chef Fabrizio Crespi at the "Carlton Hotel" in St. Moritz. In 2016, Rahav fulfilled his dream and opened the restaurant "OCD" in Tel Aviv, where his 19-course experience menu is served to only 19 guests per evening. Executive Chef Fabrizio Zanetti of "Suvretta House" welcomes Palestinian Chef Sami Tamimi and culinary author from "NopiI" and "Rovi" in London, who teamed up with Yotam Ottolenghi to open "Ottolenghi Deli" in Notting Hill in 2002 and has since added five branches to his portfolio of restaurants. Executive Chef Janko Glotz at the "Nira Alpina" hotel hosts Najat Kaanache from "Nur" in Morocco. The former actress is today not only a committed women's rights activist but has also been named twice "the best Moroccan cook in the world" and was the first and so far only Moroccan cook to work with Ferran Adria in the gourmet restaurant "El Bulli." Chef Alan Geaam of "Alan Geaam" (1 Michelin star) represents Paris. At the St. Moritz Gourmet Festival, he is a guest of Fabrizio Piantanida at the Grand Hotel Kronenhof in Pontresina. Chef Gal Ben Moshe comes from "Prism" (1 Michelin star) in Berlin; he will be a guest of Rolf Fliegauf at the Hotel "Giardino Mountain." Executive Chef Maxim Luvara from the Badrutt's Palace Hotel welcomes Zineb "Zizi" Hattab from "Kle" (1 Michelin star) and "Dar" in Zurich, which serve exclusively vegan dishes. In 2020, Gault Millau named Hattab "Discovery of the Year," in 2021 she was awarded the "Green Star," and in 2022 she received her first star from the Michelin Guide.

  • Gübelin Jewellery supports PinkPolarBear Foundation

    Gübelin Jewellery presents a new ring collection featuring rubies from Greenland. The storied fine jewellery House makes sustainable efforts and gives back to the environment and the protection of Greenland's majestic mammal by donating 10% of sales proceeds from the collection to the PinkPolarBear Foundation. Gübelin Jewellery, ring collection featuring rubies from Greenland. All images courtesy of Gübelin. The collection The Gübelin Jewellery atelier in Lucerne has created a collection of five purist ruby rings. The focal point of each piece of jewellery is a glistening ruby from Greenland. All the selected gemstones and the gold used are from sustainable and RJC-certified sources. For precious metals, Gübelin Jewellery chose ethically sourced red and white gold with an ecological seal, indicating that it was already mined and reworked to conserve resources, providing a valuable contribution to sustainability. Gübelin Jewellery, ring collection in white and yellow gold featuring rubies from Greenland. Raphael Gübelin, President of the House of Gübelin, explains: “The collection is a shining example of increased sustainability and responsibility. We are dedicated to these key values and want to actively contribute.” The design The collection consists of five rings in a variety of designs. Using the rings’ modern, purist language of forms, Gübelin Jewellery has placed the emphasis on the Greenland rubies. The jewellery addresses those who are interested in where the gems come from, as well as which materials the rings were crafted from. The designs contain a range of cuts, shapes, settings and shades of gold, all highlighting the unique character of each individual gem. The solitaire rings can be worn perfectly on their own while also combining harmoniously with other jewellery pieces. The straightforward yet elegant creations never go out of fashion, radiating joy day after day while reflecting core values. The contemporary and yet timeless design itself contributes to sustainability. The iconic ruby Each Gübelin Jewellery creation is set with the iconic ruby. The ruby stands for love and passion and symbolises expertise, experience and joy in working with coloured gemstones. In this collection, the characteristic ruby graces the setting and lends it a glittering highlight. The designers chose rubies from Greenland for the centre stone. Gübelin Jewellery has engraved the logo for the PinkPolarBear Foundation inside each ring. PinkPolarBear Foundation Gübelin Jewellery will donate 10% of the proceeds from each ring in this collection to the PinkPolarBear Foundation, an initiative founded by the Greenland Ruby mine in order to promote polar research and to protect living space for people, animals and plants. To symbolise this commitment, Gübelin Jewellery has engraved a polar bear on the inside of each ring from this collection. The bear serves as the logo for the PinkPolarBear Foundation. At the same time, the engraving indicates the origin of the ruby: Greenland. Rubies from Greenland Ruby deposits on Greenland, the world’s largest island, have been known for some time, but commercial mining only commenced in recent years, whereby sustainability is a key aspect. Rubies from Greenland are among the world’s most responsibly sourced. Rubies from Greenland are among the world’s most responsibly sourced. Deeply Inspired The House of Gübelin’s Deeply Inspired philosophy pervades all aspects of the company’s activities. It is based on a unique combination of beauty, knowledge and expertise, always pursuing a deeper understanding of the profession, in tribute to the family’s pioneering spirit. To symbolise this philosophy, each piece of Gübelin Jewellery contains a ruby. It is considered the king of gemstones and stands for passion and love. The iconic hallmark of Gübelin Jewellery also stands for the Gübelin family’s passion for coloured gemstones. Raphael Gübelin, President of the House of Gübelin, explains: “The House of Gübelin is renowned for its expertise in coloured gems, which Gübelin Jewellery presents in its most elegant form. The combination of inspiration, innovation and expertise together with tradition, authenticity and science is unique within the industry.”

  • NARDI's Venetian Chic

    The "Paola" Moretto clip in diamonds, pearls, rock crystal and black resin face. Since 1926, the famous jeweler of St. Mark's Square has embellished the treasure chests of the rich and famous of the world, all fascinated by his refined jewels, subtly orientalist and imbued with the Venetian taste for the exotic. Today also very contemporary. Text by Adriano Davoli Venice, north wing of the elegant arcades of the Procuratie Nuove, a short distance from the historic Caffé Florian and a stone's throw from the magnificent Correr Museum: at number 69 there is a place of rare elegance, muffled, pervaded by the highest and purest Venetian spirit, of a rare and authentic beauty. It is the headquarters of Nardi, the "Jeweler of Venice", a unique treasure chest that since the late Twenties of the last century creates refined handmade jewelry characterized by metals and precious workmanship, by the use of the rarest or most unusual gems, often combined with strong color contrasts. "Le Maschere" collection of rings made of enamels, diamonds and multi-coloured gems, on yellow and pink gold. A perfectly independent reality, with its own artisans and laboratories, detached from any more recent market rule aimed at agglomerating famous luxury brands or favoring too fleeting fashions, of which we soon get tired. Style has always been not water: Nardi's one knows how to excel. Giulio Nardi, its founder of Florentine origin, landed here for a great love story with a beautiful Venetian who later became his wife, has always wanted, from the beginning, to bring to the world with his jewels the cultured, unique and unmistakable style of Venice. Jewels that remind his lucky customer of a rare and unique moment lived in this magical city, as a precious, unforgettable souvenir. It is the same spirit with which Alberto Nardi today, as if to mimic that of a refined merchant in the glorious times of the Serenissima, continues with passion, elegance and absolute search for beauty the family tradition, in perfect representation of his third generation. Its President and Creative Director, he is constantly looking for the renewal of aesthetics and styles so inextricably linked to Venice, to its historic taste for exoticism, yet with a careful look at contemporaneity. Overview of the very elegant and sophisticated interiors of Nardi's boutique, a must to visit when in Venice. The city is an open-air museum, where every corner, every detail, palace, decorations and architecture can suggest the idea for the birth of a new, refined jewel. Like the famous and iconic "Moretto" brooches for which the renowned jewelry is so famous, all depicting in subtly different ways elegant half-length oriental figures, almost of Shakespeare's Othello, with turbans and robes decorated with the most colorful and precious gems. A cultured call of Giulio Nardi, their creator, certainly influenced by the famous Turcherie, all the most fashionable things in Europe from the sixteenth to the eighteenth century, directly inspired by the art and culture of the Ottoman courts, by the Middle Eastern travels of the time and by the commercial and diplomatic ties of Venice with Constantinople and the Sublime Porta. The "I Veneziani rings" with golden faces made in amber, turbans studded with diamonds After having counted among its most exclusive customers personalities of the caliber of Princess Grace of Monaco, Princess Paola of Belgium or the royals of Greece and Spain, of bizarre heiresses such as Barbara Hutton or Lady Lydia Deterding, of the sarcastic Duchess of Windsor, of strong-willed actresses like Marylin Monroe, algid like Ingrid Bergman or beautiful and famous like Elizabeth Taylor, all with their iconic Moretto brooch especially dedicated, today Nardi aims to elegantly renew the most authentic spirit of Venice for the beautiful, the refined and the exclusive, thus interpreting a new concept of luxury. The "Lion" clip in burnished silver and yellow gold is set with white and brown diamonds, the perfect tribute to one of the most iconic symbols of Venice. The most spectacular moretto brooches, of rare beauty, have the upper part of the bust that can be opened, to reveal inside the romantic Venetian profile of churches, bell towers and domes. To them, all highly appreciated by the refined international clientele present in Venice since the late '40s, during all the glamorous '50s, the '60s of the Jet-Set and well beyond, are added today the most recent creations conceived with the same taste for the sublime, the unprecedented and the eclectic. The main entrance of Nardi's historic boutique overlooking Saint Mark's Square in Venice. All images courtesy of Nardi. During a pleasant conversation that I had the privilege of sharing recently with Alberto Nardi, the rare vintage jewels such as the Moretto "Tree of Life", chiseled in platinum and covered entirely in diamonds, as well as his most recent collections, are all paraded one after the other from his hands before my eyes: each presented on refined and scenographic scarlet velvets, to enhance shapes, volumes and colors. All shown with the allure, passion and expertise of a true, great jeweler. Funny and cultured at the same time, with a flirtatious touch so decidedly Venetian, the collection of rings and earrings "Le Maschere", presented on the occasion of the Carnival, portrays the unequivocally eighteenth-century face of a lady of the time, entirely made of enamel obtained with the ancient fire technique: it has a pink complexion, cheeks with a delicate touch of rouge, the fiery red lips and two witty eyes made of diamonds, hidden but very winking behind the classic mask, black, white or colored, of Colombina. The perfect oval of the face is framed with different gems, each time mounted on delicate griffes: white or black diamonds, blue or pink sapphires, bright green tsavorite garnets or colorful tourmalines in unexpected shades. The exquisite "Casanova" cufflinks in gold, enamel, white resin and diamonds are shaped like XVIII Century gentlemen. The generous volumes of the rings and boule earrings of the "Mosaico" series, with yellow gold bezels with an only apparently sketchy appearance, deliberately irregular, almost barbaric, retain amethysts and garnets of round and oval cut. Extremely modern, they are proposed in a wide choice of other alternative gems, with the arrangement of the stones that refers precisely to the precious polychrome tesserae that adorn the Basilica of San Marco and other famous Byzantine churches in town. Very beautiful is the new animalier collection that has the lion as an interpreter, a magnificent exotic beast with a white and yellow gold profile, with the mane as moved by the wind, made of burnished Silver and yellow gold set with white and brown diamonds in different shades. It is rendered on an important ring, my favorite piece, on elegant cufflinks and on a brooch that can also be worn as a pendant. Also proposed on an important cuff bracelet, very precious, to be exhibited on the wrist. Fascinating the new clip "Trilly", or Tinker Bell, with the supple body of the delightful winged fairy, friend of Peter Pan, with stylized anthropomorphic features, in white gold and pavé-set diamonds, with elegant mobile wings in engraved turquoise, in memory of the famous fairy tale with which we all certainly loved to dream. Even the iconic Moretto has new companions, those of the series "I Veneziani", this is the name chosen for them by Nardi, with the face features now made of a transparent Mexican amber, perfectly free of inclusions and by golden yellow reflections. In addition to brooches, they are also declineted as pendants, hanging from elegant gold chains with wide, oval and fluid links. Large chandelier earrings with a bird cage effect, in gold thread and pink briolette-cut sapphires, reveal to a closer look that it is actually the three-dimensional profile of the famous Basilica dedicated to Santa Maria della Salute, on the Grand Canal, one of the places most dear to the Venetians, of great charm and history, where it is always magical to be able to return when in town. Spectacular and sculptural, the recent cocktail ring "Frozen Balls", by a generous shape, elegantly opulent and daring, is mounted on its entire surface with a myriad of round cabochon moonstones, by precious iridescent reflections, the perfect pretext to retain in the center a rare aquamarine of rectangular-cut, of the most intense and crystalline blue. The "Mia" division of Nardi, which occupies one of the five windows of the renowned jewelry shop, is a recent project conceived and dedicated to its new and younger clients, a collection aimed at modern women with a very precise taste, who personally buy, to gratify themselves, jewels by a most daily and less formal portability. The world of gardens and floral inspirations are dominant, with large daisy rings with enamel petals shaded in delicate tones, by pistils embellished with gems played in contrasting color, others with wooden and yellow gold buds hatch to reveal their precious pollen in diamonds. Very feminine and bucolic, a bit boho-chic, extremely modern. The most elegant men can also count on a wide choice of cufflinks, all with a strong stylistic characterization, Morettos included, in gold, silver, gemstones and polychrome enamels. A visit to Nardi is magical, unforgettable: it is like entering a precious Wunderkammer of other times where jewels with an exquisitely heritage taste coexist perfectly in great harmony with others decidedly more contemporary. Their ensemble is an eclectic, skilful, creative mélange perfectly balanced and very, very well done. Adriano Davoli

  • Watches and Wonders Geneva will be open to the public

    Watches and Wonders opens its doors to the public and launches new fair concept From 27 March to 2 April, the heart of Geneva will beat to watchmaking rhythms. The Salon will open its doors to the general public over a weekend, but what to expect? The short answer is, only the best; visitors will be able to discover the wonders that the 48 watch brands and manufacturers will be unveiling and dive into the world of exceptional watches. For the first time this year, Watches and Wonders will also take place ‘In the City’. Watchmaking Boutiques are already preparing for this highly anticipated event. Extraordinary Objects™ presented in 2022 by Van Cleef & Arpels featured truly extraordinary clocks that go beyond imagination and limits of Haute Horlogerie and savoir-faire. The Maison has been prominent in a rare and little-known field: precious objects and automatons. The unique creations, presented during the 2022 edition in Geneva, featured some masterful timepieces as well as 3 equally spectacular table clocks that combine aesthetic refinement with noble materials and a mechanical movement, dedicated to the magic of the moment. These automatons display the time while providing an invitation to dream. The Rêveries de Berylline automaton recreates a flower blooming to reveal a hummingbird taking flight to the sound of a sweet melody. This piece gives prominence to artistic crafts – stone cutting, polishing, ornamental stone carving, and lacquerwork, – as well as rare materials, such as red porphyry and lapis lazuli making up the base or precious stones adorning the bird. This Extraordinary Object™ gives rise to an enchanting scene, evoking nature's eternal movement. Rêveries de Berylline automaton The Rêveries de Berylline automaton recreates a flower blooming to reveal a hummingbird taking flight to the sound of a sweet melody. This piece gives prominence to artistic crafts – stone cutting, polishing, ornamental stone carving, and lacquerwork, – as well as rare materials, such as red porphyry and lapis lazuli making up the base or precious stones adorning the bird. This Extraordinary Object™ gives rise to an enchanting scene, evoking nature's eternal movement. Watches and Wonders will be inviting the inhabitants of Geneva, both novices and enthusiasts and all visitors to enjoy an immersive experience at the heart of a Salon, designed as a sumptuous village with its squares, alleys, restaurants and watchmaking worlds. In total, nearly 50 Maisons and watch manufacturers will be exhibiting their wonders in Geneva. The curtain will rise on this exhibition of exceptional pieces on 27 March of this year. At this event, eagerly awaited by the main players in the watchmaking industry, the Maisons will unveil their latest creations. The first days are reserved for business visitors, while the general public is expected on 1 and 2 April, when they can take a journey into the heart of time. More than just a trade show, it will be a passionate experience to be enjoyed in person or online via the watchesandwonders.com platform. Watches and Wonders is also a place where you can listen to and learn from the professionals. An extensive programme of talks has been specially organised for the general public on 1 and 2 April. Around six talks and discussion panels will be held each day in the Auditorium. Renowned experts and speakers have been lined up to analyse watch trends, explain what makes a watch valuable, or how to start a vintage watch collection. Topical subjects will also be discussed, such as the metaverse, NFTs, blockchain and circularity. Watches and Wonders is devoted to time: first, the past, through objects crafted respecting a centuries-old tradition, then the present, with timepieces which are revolutionising this art, and finally, the future, which will be discussed in the LAB, an area dedicated to innovation and new technologies, driven by projects from the exhibiting Maisons which are looking to introduce the future into the heart of watch movements. The Salon has a number of wonders for visitors to explore, including the ‘What time is it?’ photographic exhibition presented by Karine Bauzin. It investigates our relationship with time and how it is perceived. This Swiss press photographer asked people she met in 20 different countries ‘What time is it?’. Their answer can be summed up in one hand gesture, the same one repeated all over the world and which watchmakers themselves used when they invented the wristwatch. It took her ten years to complete this ethnographic work. While the Salon is the highlight of this annual rendez-vous, the whole of Geneva will hum to the rhythm of watch movements for a whole week. The major watch stores on Rue du Rhône and Rues Basses will also open their doors In the City in order to unveil special designs, ornate pieces and rare watch complications during a skilfully orchestrated rally. Each of the participating brands' boutiques has planned specific activities to welcome visitors and showcase their expertise. A special evening event dedicated to watchmaking will be held in the Rues Basses on Thursday, 30 March from 5 to 9 pm. This will be an opportunity to be drawn into the wonderful world of watchmaking, amidst concerts, street entertainment and famous artists. Those who wish to prolong the experience can attend the talks on ‘Geneva and watchmaking’ at the Pont de la Machine. This venue will also serve as an information centre throughout the week. Whether you are an amateur or an enthusiast of beautiful watches, Watches and Wonders is a rare event not to be missed: online ticketing opens on 1 February at noon on the watchesandwonders.com platform.

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