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  • Cartier celebrates Paris with an iconic film duo

    Catherine Deneuve, Rami Malek and Guy Ritchie: a dream cast assembles in Paris for Cartier's Tank Française. Catherine Deneuve and Rami Malek. Courtesy Cartier. A strong, international cast comes together for a new film by Guy Ritchie, shot halfway between Paris's right and left bank. The concept? To pay homage to a certain avant-garde spirit linked to Paris, its freedom and its creativity, a cultural geography that was captured so well by the nouvelle vague cinema. It's a story of chances and the funny little tricks that fate plays on you - the story of a karmic bond that seems to exist between certain people. © Comité Cocteau / 2022, ProLitteris, Zurich On one side, Rami Malek, on the other, Catherine Deneuve. They cross paths - amused and complicit - over the Pont Alexandre, across different time periods. She, in her key roles, The Umbrellas of Cherbourg by Jacques Demy, Indochine by Régis Wargnier and Place Vendôme by Nicole Garcia and he, in the role of a multi-talented artist. Two characters, two continents, two generations. Linked by the same love of French cinema and culture.

  • De Beers Group gets new CEO

    Al Cook will succeed Bruce Cleaver as CEO of De Beers Group Following the announcement on 10 October 2022 that Al Cook (above, all images courtesy of De Beers), will succeed Bruce Cleaver as CEO of De Beers Group in early 2023, De Beers Group advises that Al Cook will formally take over the role of CEO on 20 February, with Bruce Cleaver moving into the role of Co-Chair on the same date. Also Charles Stanley, President of De Beers Brands in North America, is to retire from the business following more than 20 years with De Beers. Charles will hand over his official duties over the course of January and remain through the end of February to ensure a smooth transition. Céline Assimon, CEO of De Beers Jewellers and De Beers Forevermark, will take on Charles’ responsibilities on an interim basis while the process to identify Charles’ permanent successor continues, and an announcement will be made in due course. Charles rejoined De Beers in 2010 – having previously worked for the business from 1994 to 2003 – and has played a key role in growing the De Beers Forevermark business in North America, overseeing several high-profile campaigns and significant evolutions in the business’s commercial offering, including the development of its e-commerce proposition. Charles also played a central part in representing De Beers in the wider industry through his roles in a range of diamond and jewelry trade associations. Charles Stanley said: “It has been my pleasure and honor to have worked at De Beers for more than 20 years, first in London and then as President of De Beers Brands North America for the past 12 years. I will leave with great respect for the integrity and values that define the company and the way it works with all its stakeholders and partners in this wonderful industry. I am proud of everything I have been able to accomplish over my time with De Beers, all of which has been made possible by the collaboration and support of my colleagues across the business and our valued partners. To all of you, I would like to say a heartfelt thank you.” Céline Assimon said: “Since I joined De' Beers, it has been a privilege to be able to call on Charles’ expertise and experience, both as the De Beers Forevermark business has evolved and grown in a fast-changing external environment, and as we have sought to integrate our broader downstream activities into a ‘one De Beers’ approach. Charles’ deep passion for diamonds and the diamond industry has always shone through, and all of us at De Beers thank him for his huge contribution over the years and wish him well for the future during his retirement. While Charles is leaving, I am really looking forward to working even more closely with the excellent De Beers Brands team in the US that he has built over the years while we continue to seek his long-term replacement. As end clients increasingly seek sustainable, branded and digitally-rich diamond offerings, we believe we are perfectly positioned to deliver success for De Beers and our partners in this new diamond world.” Established in 1888, De Beers is the world’s leading diamond company, with unrivalled expertise in the discovery and selection of diamonds, offering a range of jewellery through its two Jewellery Houses. Founded in London, with a flagship store on Old Bond Street and a presence in the most exclusive locations around the world, De Beers Jewellers is the pinnacle of luxury diamond jewellery. Building on De Beers’ 130 years of expertise, the House glorifies the world’s most beautiful diamonds through creativity and craftsmanship in bold, distinctive designs. De Beers Jewellers has 30 stores globally and ships to 15 markets via debeers.com. De Beers Forevermark is a Jewellery House offering contemporary designs featuring responsibly sourced diamonds that are hand selected for their beauty. Created for marking special moments and wearing every day, Forevermark diamond jewellery is timeless with a twist. De Beers Forevermark jewellery is sold through forevermark.com and approximately 2,400 jeweller locations worldwide. Binding them is a relentless passion for beauty and craftsmanship, resulting in natural diamond jewellery that customers are proud to own and wear forever. De Beers is committed to ensuring all the diamonds it discovers create a lasting positive impact for people and the places where they are found. This comes with a pledge to build a better future – one that is fairer, safer, cleaner and healthier, in which communities thrive, ethical practices are maintained, and the natural environment is protected.

  • Abu Dhabi Sustainability Week Hosts First Green Hydrogen Summit

    Abu Dhabi Sustainability Week Hosts First Green Hydrogen Summit in Year of Climate Action for UAE International experts and decision makers to highlight green hydrogen’s potential to support global net-zero goals ahead of UAE-hosted COP28 later this year. Summit to be one of series of high-level events held at ADSW 2023 – highlighting UAE leadership’s commitment to practical, inclusive climate action. Zeinab Bashier, the Founder and President of “We love Egypt“ Foundation, and His Highness Sheikh Mohamed bin Zayed Al Nahyan is President of the United Arab Emirates and Ruler of Abu Dhabi Abu Dhabi Sustainability Week (ADSW), the global initiative championed by the UAE and its clean energy powerhouse Masdar to accelerate sustainable development, will hold its first annual Green Hydrogen Summit this year, highlighting green hydrogen’s growing importance in the global drive toward net zero. Zeinab Bashier, the Founder and President of “We love Egypt“ Foundation, and H.E. Dr. Sultan Ahmed Al Jaber, UAE Minister of Industry and Advanced Technology, Special Envoy for Climate Change, and Chairman of Masdar The Green Hydrogen Summit 2023, taking place on January 18, will be one of the key events taking place at ADSW 2023, which will convene heads of state, policymakers, industry leaders, investors, youth, and entrepreneurs, for a series of impactful dialogues ahead of the United Nations Climate Change Conference (COP28), to be held in the UAE from November 30-December 12. COP28, the Emirates Climate Conference, will see the conclusion of the first Global Stocktake of the Paris Agreement – assessing the progress made by countries on their national climate plans. H.E. Dr. Sultan Ahmed Al Jaber, UAE Minister of Industry and Advanced Technology, Special Envoy for Climate Change, and Chairman of Masdar, said, “We stand at a critical moment as nations prepare to gather in the UAE to highlight progress on meeting climate objectives and to explore pathways to net zero. Ahead of COP28, ADSW2023 will provide a platform for vital dialogue between key stakeholders and decision makers, as we look to forge alliances and develop innovative solutions to deliver an inclusive energy transition. The UAE and Masdar have long believed that green hydrogen will play a key role in that energy transition and as we continue to explore low-carbon and zero-carbon energy solutions, the time is right for green hydrogen to take a more central role at ADSW.” Zeinab Bashier, the Founder and President of “We love Egypt“ Foundation, and H.E. Dr. Sultan Ahmed Al Jaber, UAE Minister of Industry and Advanced Technology, Special Envoy for Climate Change, and Chairman of Masdar The inaugural Green Hydrogen Summit at ADSW will cover topics including, developments in hydrogen production, conversion, transport, storage, and use. It will include high-level discussions focused on the development of the UAE hydrogen economy, the role of government and regulation, and panel sessions on a broad range of topics including innovation, sustainable finance, green energy in Africa, and hydrogen’s value chain. Zeinab Bashier, the Founder and President of “We love Egypt“ Foundation, all images courtesy of Z. Bashier. Mohamed Jameel Al Ramahi, Chief Executive Officer, Masdar, said, “As green hydrogen continues to show growing promise as a critical enabler of our net-zero future, we must unlock its full potential by accelerating research and development and investment in this vital sector. Masdar is excited to launch the ADSW Green Hydrogen Summit to support the development of the UAE’s green hydrogen economy and help realize the global energy transition. This inaugural Summit will also pave the way toward COP28 in the UAE, where we can expect green hydrogen to be a key component of a future low-carbon energy market.” Zeinab Bashier, the Founder and President of “We love Egypt“ Foundation, all images courtesy of Z. Bashier. The Green Hydrogen Summit is held in partnership with the Hydrogen Council, Atlantic Council, International Renewable Energy Agency and Dii Desert Energy. ADSW host Masdar announced in December the formation of its new green hydrogen business to support the UAE’s green hydrogen economy. Masdar’s green hydrogen business aims to produce up to one million tonnes of green hydrogen per annum by 2030. Masdar is already actively involved in a number of projects related to green hydrogen production, including agreements with leading Egyptian state-backed organizations to cooperate on the development of green hydrogen production plants, targeting an electrolyzer capacity of 4 gigawatts by 2030, and output of up to 480,000 tonnes of green hydrogen per year. The first international sustainability gathering of the year, ADSW 2023 will again feature the ADSW Summit, hosted by Masdar. Taking place on January 16, the Summit will focus on a wide range of critical topics including Food and Water Security, Energy Access, Industrial Decarbonization, Health, and Climate Adaptation. Zeinab Bashier, the Founder and President of “We love Egypt“ Foundation. As in previous years, ADSW 2023 will feature partner-led events and opportunities for international engagement on sustainability-related topics, including the International Renewable Energy Agency’s IRENA Assembly, the Atlantic Council Global Energy Forum, the Abu Dhabi Sustainable Finance Forum, and the World Future Energy Summit. ADSW 2023 will also mark the 15th anniversary of the Zayed Sustainability Prize – the UAE’s pioneering global award for recognizing excellence in sustainability. Masdar’s Youth for Sustainability platform will hold the Y4S Hub during the week, which aims to attract 3,000 young people, while the annual forum for Masdar’s Women in Sustainability, Environment and Renewable Energy (WiSER) platform will also be held, giving women a greater voice in the sustainability debate. Key dates for ADSW 2023 include:• 14 – 15 January: IRENA Assembly, Atlantic Council Energy Forum• 16 January: Opening Ceremony, COP28 Strategy Announcement and Zayed Sustainability Prize Awards Ceremony, ADSW Summit• 16 – 18 January: World Future Energy Summit, Youth 4 Sustainability Hub, Innovate• 17 January: WiSER Forum WiSER Forum• 18 January: Green Hydrogen Summit and Abu Dhabi Sustainable Finance Forum Registration for the Green Hydrogen Summit is now open and can be found on https://abudhabisustainabilityweek.com/

  • The 7 Best-dressed celebrities at the 2023 Critics Choice Awards

    Awards season is in full swing and stars from TV and film gathered at the Fairmont Century Plaza in Los Angeles for the 28th annual Critics Choice Awards Sunday. Celebrities including Julia Roberts, Cate Blanchett, Stephanie Hsu posed on the red carpet on their way to the ceremony, which was hosted by comedian Chelsea Handler. Julia Roberts wore a long dress in black silk crepe highlighted with darts to structure the silhouette. The sleeves and neckline are adorned with the iconic Schiaparelli Appolo Versailles embroidery composed of golden sequins in different shades, blade threads, golden tubes, pearls, and Swarovski rhinestones. Images courtesy of Schiaparelli. The star adorned her Schiaparelli couture look with two white gold and diamond rings and dangling diamond earrings from Swiss Maison Chopard, which she partially covers with her red locks. Maison Schiaparelli will open the anticipated Paris Haute Couture week next Monday, when the storied brand will present its Haute Couture collection for next spring/summer at Hôtel d'Évreux on Place Vendôme. Actress Julia Roberts appeared in Custom Schiaparelli Haute Couture, designed by Daniel Roseberry to the 28th Annual Critics Choice Awards The latter half of 2022 was busy for Roberts. She costarred alongside George Clooney in the romantic comedy, “Ticket to Paradise,” where they played divorced parents trying to talk their daughter out of getting married. At this year’s Critics’ Choice Awards, Roberts was nominated for Best Actress in a Limited Series or Movie Made for Television for her role in the Starz political thriller “Gaslit.” The series focused on the Watergate scandal that implicated former president Richard Nixon. Some of this year’s nominees included Steven Spielberg, Austin Butler, Cate Blanchett, Angela Bassett and Zendaya. Aniya Taylor-Joy looked ravishing in Dior Haute Couture nude Miss Dior dress with strass embellishment. Courtesy image of Dior. Stephanie Hsu - Best Supporting Actress Nominee for “Everything Everywhere All at Once”, swept the red carpet in Valentino Haute Couture look No60 from The Anatomy of Couture Spring/Summer 2022 collection. All images Valentino/Getty Images. Patricia Arquette in dusty green Empired waistline Valentino look from the Surfaces Spring 2023 collection Viola Davis - Best Actress Nominee for “The Woman King” in asymmetrical full sequined Valentino look from The Unboxing Spring/Summer 2023 collection Matt Smith - Best Supporting Actor in a Drama Serie Nominee for “House of the Dragon” wearing cream tuxedo jacket over black Mandarin collar shirt and pants, his total look is from the Valentino Fall 23 collection. Niecy Nash wearing: custom Jason Wo sequin gown adorned her look with Jacob & Co. jewellery.

  • Sotheby’s auctions Edvard Munch’s monumental painting in March

    A SEMINAL FOUR-METRE-LONG PAINTING BY EDVARD MUNCH EXPLORING LOVE, LIFE & DEATH ON THE OSLO FJORD From the Walls of Max Reinhardt’s Avant-Garde Berlin Theatre to a Luxury Cruise Liner & Hidden from the Nazis in a Barn Deep in the Norwegian Forest Central section of the painting, courtesy of Sotheby's all rights reserved all images. “Dance on the Beach” to be Offered at Sotheby’s London in March From the Renowned Olsen Collection As Part of a Restitution Settlement with the Family of Leading Jewish Patron Curt Glaser Established in 1744, Sotheby’s is the world’s premier destination for art and luxury, the Maison offers Edvard Munch’s singular vision resulted in vivid, psychological artworks as he battled his demons and the eternal pull between life and death on canvas. In 1906, at a turning point in his life, Munch was commissioned to paint what is now known as “The Reinhardt Frieze”, installed on the walls of impresario Max Reinhardt’s avant-garde theatre in Berlin with twelve major canvases – in an immersive installation that was one of the first of its kind, and trailblazed the relationship between performance and art. At just over four metres wide, Dance on the Beach is the monumental culmination of the series. In the foreground of the canvas are two of the artist’s great loves, affairs with both of whom ended in heartbreak. It is the only example from the Reinhardt series remaining in private hands, with all of the others held in German museum collections. As part of a tumultuous journey in the lead up to and during the Second World War, the painting was last on the market 89 years ago, when it was acquired at auction by Thomas Olsen – who assembled an unmatched collection of around thirty works by the artist, including one of four versions of the infamous The Scream. Having been identified as once having belonged to Professor Curt Glaser, a major cultural figure in 1930s Berlin who was forced to flee, it is being sold by agreement between the two families. March sale The work will be offered as a highlight of Sotheby’s Modern & Contemporary Evening Sale in London on 1 March, with an estimate of $15-25 million. Prior to the sale, the painting will go on public view for the first time since 1979, with an exhibition in London (22 February – 1 March), as well as digital installations of this frieze in Hong Kong (5-7 February) and New York (11-15 February). “Munch was the ultimate rebel, and every brushstroke on this frieze is utterly modern and purely expressive. This composition reimagines one of Munch’s greatest images, the Dance of Life, which was the culmination of the artist’s Frieze of Life and places love at the centre of the artist’s ‘modern life of the soul’. His first version dates from 1899-1900 and hangs alongside the iconic Scream in Oslo’s National Gallery. This work is among the greatest of all Expressionist masterpieces remaining in private hands — its shattering emotional impact remains as powerful today as in 1906. Simon Shaw, Sotheby’s Vice Chairman, Fine Arts “This exceptional painting is made all the more special due to its extraordinary provenance, a history that has unfolded since it was painted 115 years ago. Intertwined in the story of this painting are two families – both leading patrons of Munch. Indeed, so important were the Glasers and the Olsens to Munch, that he painted both Henrietta Olsen and Elsa Glaser (wives of Thomas and Curt). We are proud to play a part in the painting’s next chapter, whilst celebrating the legacy of the patrons who were integral in supporting the vision of such a great artist.” Lucian Simmons, Vice Chairman and Sotheby’s Worldwide Head of Restitution The Origins & Journey of the Painting Dance on the Beach was originally commissioned by world-famous film and theatre director Max Reinhardt, whose productions were deeply influenced by Munch’s works. In 1906, as part of a move towards theatre in the round, Reinhardt asked Munch to create a frieze for his avant-garde theatre in Berlin. Placed in a hall on the upper level of the theatre, audience members were immersed in Munch’s vision – which he titled ‘images from the modern psyche’ - before stepping into Reinhardt’s performance space. This energetic and rhythmic work was the culmination of the cycle – by far the most important of the works that make up the frieze, executed on the largest scale and the only one signed in full. There is a tangible sense of movement that is unique to this work, with whirling couples dancing across the canvas. It is also the only part of the frieze cycle remaining in private hands, with nine of the pieces held in the collection of Berlin’s National Gallery, one in the Hamburg Kunsthalle and one in the Folkwang Museum, Essen. When the theatre was refurbished in 1912, the frieze was split up and this work was acquired by leading art historian and curator Professor Curt Glaser, who was a friend and biographer of the artist, and at the time was at the epicentre of Berlin cultural life, holding a position as the director of the Berlin State Art Library. Together with his wife, Glaser assembled an outstanding art collection that included works by Munch, Henri Matisse, and Max Beckmann along with important Old Master paintings. In 1917, Glaser published the first German monograph on Edvard Munch. Persecuted by the Nazis for his Jewish background, Glaser fled Germany in 1933, and was obliged to sell this work, along with many others. Glaser’s legacy is currently being celebrated by an exhibition at the Kunstmuseum in Basel, who are displaying 200 works together for the first time since they were dispersed in 1933. The exhibition is open until 12 February 2023. Dance on the Beach found its way to an auction house in Oslo in 1934 and was purchased by another friend and patron of Munch’s – his neighbour, Thomas Olsen. Olsen hung the painting in the First Class lounge of his passenger liner the MS Black Watch – which travelled between Oslo and Newcastle – from January to September 1939. After Britain declared war on Germany, Olsen removed the artwork and laid the vessel up in anticipation of the German invasion. Thomas Olsen took his Munch pictures, including The Scream, into hiding in a barn in the Norwegian forest for the duration of the conflict. The boat was later seized by the German U-boat squadron. Recovered from its hiding place after the war, Dance on the Beach has remained in the Olsen family ever since. Testament to the Olsen family’s support of Munch over the decades is the Ramme Art Gallery, on the Olso Fjord, celebrating Munch. Petter Olsen, Thomas Olsen’s son, is now renovating Munch’s home there, and from next summer it will be possible to visit for the first time. Munch’s Frieze of Life Series “I who came into the world sick, in sick surroundings, to whom youth was a sickroom and life a shiny, sunlit window — and out there I wanted so much to take part in the dance, the Dance of Life” – Edvard Munch Munch had an immensely sad childhood, starting with the death of his mother when he was five years old, followed by the decease of his older sister, nine years later – both from tuberculosis. His elder sister spent much of her life in a mental hospital, while his father suffered from severe depression. This trauma meant that Munch felt divorced from life, instead watching “the dance of life through a window”. Dance on the Beach captures that sense of life playing out before his eyes. In the foreground, two of his greatest loves haunt the canvas – Tulla Larsen and Millie Thaulow. The former was a turbulent affair that would end in Munch shooting his own hand in the heat of passion, and the latter was his cousin’s wife, and Munch’s first love. The commission was painted whilst the artist was in the grip of addiction and would prove to be his very last before an acute breakdown in 1908 that resulted in a stint at a ‘nerve’ clinic in Copenhagen. On his return, Munch’s art shifts, as he moves back to Norway and focuses on his surroundings, the landscape and local characters. Also confirmed for Sotheby’s Modern & Contemporary Auction on 1 March, is a monumental masterpiece from Gerhard Richter’s celebrated cycle of abstract painting. Of spectacular proportions, spanning four metres across, Abstraktes Bild, 1986 will be offered with an estimate in excess of £20 million.

  • Maurice Lacroix x King of the Court Finals 2022

    Maurice Lacroix x King of the Court Finals 2022, in DOHA is success on and off the court Fltr: The Kings and the Queens of the Court: David Ahman, Wies Bekhuis, Brecht Piersma, Jonatan Hellvig and Marcel Gut (Maurice Lacroix) Maurice Lacroix, the ‘Official Timekeeper of King of the Court (KOTC)’, recently travelled to Doha to provide Swiss precision timing for the KOTC Finals. In front of an enthusiastic crowd, David Ahman & Jonatan Hellvig from Sweden and Brecht Piersma & Wies Bekhuis from The Netherlands secured victory. Each victorious volleyball player was presented with an AIKON King of the Court Special Edition, an urban watch that’s no stranger to success. It’s been a busy year for all participants in the global volleyball King of the Court 2022 Crown Series. The season, comprising four international tournaments, kicked off in Hamburg before moving to Utrecht, Rio de Janeiro and lastly, Doha, where the finals were held. Each tournament was staged in an urban setting, an environment very familiar to Maurice Lacroix and its highly successful watch, the AIKON. Since it was named ‘Official Timekeeper of King of the Court (KOTC)’ in July 2021, Maurice Lacroix has been on hand to time all matches with notable Swiss precision. This dynamic, energetic sport resonates with Maurice Lacroix. It’s action-packed, allowing spectators to get close to the excitement, witnessing elite athletes engage in adrenaline-fuelled competition, eager to achieve success. This accessibility is an attribute KOTC shares in common with Maurice Lacroix, a luxury brand that is known for making affordable watches imbued with a high perceived value. The King of the Court Finals took place in Doha on the 11th - 14th of January in front of a sea of excited fans. Held over four days, a series of matches comprising quarter-finals, semi-finals and ultimately the finals, determined who would be named the Kings and Queens of the Court. This year, the David Ahman & Jonatan Hellvig from Sweden were crowned the Kings of the Court and Brecht Piersma & Wies Bekhuis from The Netherlands were named the Queens of the Court. Anouk Vergé-Dépré, FOB Maurice Lacroix, and her teammate Menia Bentele finished second. Congratulations to them! Second place for Anouk Vergé-Dépré (Maurice Lacroix FOB) and Menia Bentele from Switzerland Recognising their achievement, Maurice Lacroix presented each winner with an AIKON Chronograph King of the Court Special Edition watch. Made from lightweight titanium and presented in the corporate colours of KOTC, this high-performance chronograph represents a fitting reward for championship success. Indeed, with Maurice Lacroix, each wearer is a winner both on and off the court! Your time is now with Maurice Lacroix For almost 50 years, Maurice Lacroix has demonstrated all of its watchmaking expertise, crafting watches within the brand’s Manufacture in Saignelégier, Switzerland. Having won more than fifteen awards, the brand has demonstrated an innovative, avant-garde and perfectionist spirit over the years. Maurice Lacroix’s culture is indeed to offer affordable watches, with iconic design and high perceived value. AIKON King of the Court Special Edition In 2016, Maurice Lacroix reinterpreted its iconic model of the 90s, the Calypso, releasing the AIKON. Modern and daring, the AIKON is made for a generation of Millennials who are connected, cosmopolitan and talented. This ambitious generation is setting out to conquer the world’s cities, embracing their unique spirit. A constant source of inspiration for the Maurice Lacroix creative team, an active and urban brand, that thrives in the electric energy of these cities. With this in mind, Maurice Lacroix chooses to associate its image with a set of activities that allow consumers to experience the unique vitality of city life.

  • Anya Taylor-Joy starrs in new campaign by Jaeger-LeCoultre

    JAEGER-LECOULTRE PRESENTS ‘WALK INTO THE DAWN’, A BEAUTIFUL NEW CAMPAIGN STARRING ANYA TAYLOR-JOY Celebrating femininity, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s new ‘Walk into the Dawn’ campaign features Anya Taylor-Joy in a dreamlike ode to the Rendez-Vous Dazzling Shooting Star. Walking into the dawn elicits the steps that bring us closer to realising our dreams – the dreams that we may wish upon a shooting star. "The Rendez-Vous Dazzling Shooting Star is a miniature work of art for the wrist," says Anya. "The shooting star on the dial is incredibly romantic and the sparkling blue dial and circles of diamonds make it very glamorous – and yet I see it as a watch that could be a genuine ally for my daily life, from morning until evening, counting out the beats of the day." Introduced at Watches and Wonders in 2022, the Rendez-Vous Dazzling Shooting Star was inspired by the wonders of the night sky. Intrigued by the ephemeral beauty of shooting stars, Jaeger-LeCoultre’s watchmakers decided to capture this rare celestial phenomenon in a timepiece. '

  • Indian Splendor

    Boucheron reworks its historical archives to create a new High Jewellery Collection inspired by the legendary gems of the Maharajah of Patiala Text by Adriano Davoli Paris, August 2nd ,1928. Sir Bhupinder Singh, the immensely wealthy, imposing and fascinating Maharajah of Patiala has booked for him and its retinue of forty guards and servants thirty-five suites at the Hotel Ritz, on the elegant Place Vendôme. The Prince was famous as a keen polo and cricket player, with a penchant for a life of unparalleled luxury, based on several Rolls Royce, a private plane, a very unique boy toy at the time, and, above all, for another of his immoderate passions: the one for the endless collection of gems and ancestral Indian jewellery he owned, often worn on official occasions at court and, with immense panache and splendour, during the Dehli Durbar of 1911 in front of King George V and Queen Mary, proclaimed on the occasion as new Emperors of India. A gemstone collection that Louis Boucheron, son of the Maison’s founder, Frédéric, has never seen before, both for quantity and quality: 7570 diamonds, 1430 emeralds, along with a large number of rubies and pearls. The flamboyant Maharajah decided to entrust six metal safety trunks full of the above gems to Boucheron, to set them on the more trendy, almost invisible and super light platinum, metal that became de riguer since its use, at the very end of the XIX century, by the most important Parisian jewellers. At today, this is the biggest and most important private grand order ever received by the Maison from a single client: a total of 149 sets of jewels that took ten years to be completed, before Buphinder Singh passed away in 1938. Very vivid remains in the annals of the Ritz the incredible scene observed by its employees of the time, astonished by the Maharajah’s servants crossing in line Place Vendôme, carrying his entire treasure in direction of the jewellery Maison’s headquarters, just opposite on the other corner of the square. It is with this fabulous fairytale vision and anecdote in mind that Claire Choisne, Creative Director of Boucheron since 2012, has attentively examined with passion and undoubted amazement the Maison’s secret archives, with thousands of preparatory sketches submitted to the Patiala prince in that fabulous 1928, to get now inspired for its most recent High Jewellery Collection. Recently unveiled in Paris during the Haute Couture Week, “New Maharajahs - Histoire de Style” is the evocative name she has chosen to present her new creations, fourteen new pieces divided in five different sets. As the Patiala historic jewels were conceived for a man almost two meters tall, imposing and often overwhelmed with gems, she has decided to recreate the same sensational effect of those jewels, yet on a lower scale. BOUCHERON High Jewellery "The Maharajah Necklace", set with emeralds, rock crystal and diamonds. All images courtesy of Boucheron. She has also privileged a more monochromatic palette of precious stones: diamonds, touches of green thanks to a selection of superb Colombian emeralds, rock crystal to obtain luminous liquid-like effects, mother-of-pearls and, of course, pearls, to better adapt the Collection to a more contemporary context, colour scheme and mood. Both the transparent and frosted rock crystal, a material often favoured by Boucheron, has also been used following the glyptic ancient oriental technique of engraving gems, in association with diamonds or with the iridescent mother-of-pearl. The large ceremonial collars of the Maharajah, originally conceived to adorn a so imposing man, has been now updated by Claire Choisne in more gentle and elegant sets, still maintaining their Indian flair, for both ladies or for very sophisticated men, dedicated to today’s new Maharanis and Maharajahs, hence the name chosen for the collection. One of the most important pieces is the “Maharajah Necklace”, designed as a perfect circular line of modular elements all paved in diamonds, with a central section of baguette-cut emeralds that add movement to its sparkling circumference. All around it, instead of the emeralds originally present on the 1928 necklace, a sequence of diaphanous cabochon rock crystal drops are cleverly backed with micro pavé diamonds, conferring to the piece a very light and subdued scintillating allure. The centre of the necklace features an important motif en cascade mounted with octagonal step-cut Colombian emeralds of the best velvety green and with emerald boules of the same origin. The lower section of this dangling element, perfectly detachable to be worn as a superb clip, is also fringed by large transparent rock crystal drops decreasing in size, again backed with diamonds. Perfectly wearable by contemporary men in accordance to their attitudes, strong personality and latest trends, the detachable motif suggests a cravate or a modern jabot, ultra chic and very glamorous. We must in fact remember that in princely India, the most stunning jewels were worn mainly by men more than by women, to outline their royal status, immense power over their dominions and as statement of their once immense wealth. Another emeralds and diamonds ceremonial necklace originally worn by Bhupinder Singh of Patiala, in the new creative process made by Claire Choisne has been reduced in size and split in two, to create an impressive pair of half moon shaped créole earrings, with a diamonds lattice in its inner section and zig-zagging emerald drops in the outer one, with the green gems gently caressing the face. Very modern in scale, they are truly sensational. “The Lotus Necklace”, all in diamonds and detailed with rock crystal drops, is shaped like a splendid lace characterized by this typical oriental flower motif: it can be worn as a very slender choker or as a wider collar, both ways are extremely elegant, so very perfect to enhance the neckline of the new princesses of today. A pair of pendant earrings complete this set. Once paired, they form a lotus flower in full bloom, with important marquise-cut diamonds next to the lobes, mimicking the pistils. The Maison has also re-edited the superb sarpech, the typical Indian jewel that decorate the frontal part of the turbans, as created in 1906 for Jaghatjit Singh, the statuesque and magnificent Maharajah of Kapurthala, another great client of Boucheron and good friend of Bhupinder Singh. The slender shape of the brooch is completely paved with diamonds of various cuts and recalls the sinuous tail feathers of the lyre bird, as softly moved by a gentle wind. The new contemporary version, if worn on the hair as a large comb or on the peak lapels of a dressy men’s dinner jacket, expertly offers a new way of sporting it. A further selection of long sautoirs and swag necklaces, some with the traditional Indian silk cord on the back, now rendered with a white gold rope, allows the piece to be better adjusted in length. Between-the finger rings, earrings and bangle bracelets in diamonds, pearls and rock crystal complete the Collection. Certainly a very dreamy one that, thanks to the great creativity and unique savoir-faire of Boucheron and its skilled workshops, help us to travel back to the most legendary periods of fairytale India, daydreaming of oriental princes and princesses, of mysterious hidden treasures of gems and jewels, now expertly redesigned in accordance with the Maison’s new mood and contemporary aesthetics. They are all fantastic and very stylish, certainly superb. Adriano Davoli This article was originaly published in print and online on MoralmodaMagazine.

  • Sliding Wonders by Van Cleef & Arpels

    The iconic Zip necklace created by Van Cleef & Arpels is a concentrate of refined ingenuity, executive prowess and absolute statement. Bold and Very Chic. Text by Adriano Davoli The very elegant Zip Antique Éventail, set in white gold, diamonds and lapis-lazuli marquetry and boules. (All images by Courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels). Starting from the early 1930’s, thanks to Elsa Schiaparelli, the clever and useful zip arrives for the first time on the most irreverent and sensational Haute Couture outfits conceived by the histrionic couturière of Italian origin. At the same time, confirming once more the always existing connections between the Haute Joaillerie and the Haute Couture, Renée Puissant, daughter of the founders of Van Cleef & Arpels and its Creative Director between the two World Wars, decides, apparently at the suggestion of Wallis, the Duchess of Windsor, to create a jewel inspired by the zip, that can be opened and slid, adding an elegant tassel in gold threads on the slider, to make it more feminine and glamorous. The Zip Antique Padma Necklace in all its rubies and diamonds magnificence, on white and pink gold. After several and laborious technical phases already developed around 1938, when the idea was patented, the project stopped due to the Second World War, while the first model made of gold, diamonds and rubies saw the light in the Maison’s workshops only around 1950. A peculiar fact is that, although the highly controversial and sarcastic Duchess wore the Zip necklace on various occasions, despite her fabulous and vast jewelry collection she never owned one of her own. She has only, perhaps, inspired it. The jewel is subject to an elegant metamorphosis, a decidedly High Jewelry detail: the back section of the jewel is detachable and removable so that, once the tassel is pulled and the zip closed, the necklace becomes a refined bracelet, with the pompon on the side now free to swing on the wrist with indisputable panache. Different necklace models, after their metamorphosis as bracelets, once completely zipped. Produced annually still today in a limited number of pieces due to the prohibitive costs and processing times, over the years the necklace and its tassel have been enriched with colours and metals, thanks to a wide choice of gems, semiprecious stones, pearls, enamels. Set in yellow, white or pink gold. On the working bench, the white gold structure of the Zip Antique Necklace. Van Cleef & Arpels was present at the second edition of Homo Faber 2022, recently held in Venice at the Giorgio Cini Foundation, on the island of San Giorgio Maggiore, inside the section “Genealogies of Ornament”. On display, some specimens of the Zip, including one of the first models ever created in rubies and diamonds, on yellow gold. The Maison also set up there a small workshop where two skilled craftsmen chosen among its famous “Mains d’Or” showed the public and visitors the technical drawings and structural parts of this ingenious jewel, so inextricably linked to Van Cleef & Arpels’ emblematic universe, such as the Serti Mysterieux, the Minaudière or the Cadenas. In the same exhibition section of Homo Faber, wanted by the curator Judy Clark to emphasize the hyphen between the Zip and the Maison Schiaparelli, there was an elegant mannequin dressed in a highly unique all black, pearls and rhinestones creation designed by Daniel Roseberry, its Artistic Director. Extremely light, highly flexible and subtly sensual on the skin, the workmanship of the Zip caresses the neckline with sinuous elegance, almost as if it were a soft and enveloping satin fabric. Adriano Davoli

  • PIAGET’s SPIRIT for GOLD

    At Homo Faber 2022, the celebrated Swiss Maison displays its expertise and excellent savoir-faire in the transformation of gold. Text by Adriano Davoli For almost 150 years, Maison Piaget has been a passionate creator of unique timepieces and jewels that combine unsurpassed technique with surprising beauty and audacity. Since the 1950’s, the transformation of gold, a material that the Maison uses for the construction of watch cases, bracelets, engraving and high jewelry creations, Piaget has wanted to perfect his expertise in all the phases of gold processing and transformation. Piaget High Jewellery watch presented during the 2nd edition of Homo Faber in Venice. All images courtesy of Piaget. At Homo Faber 2022 along with other luxury brands of the Richemont Group, Piaget encourages, celebrates and revolutionizes craftsmanship and the concept of excellence, so perfectly interpreting the motto of the Venetian exhibition “Crafting a More Human Future”. At Homo Faber, Piaget has proposed its savoir-faire in the goldsmith field thanks to artisans who will demonstrate the art of engraving technique and the creations of gold chains. Vintage models of past magnificent collections were on display: my preferred one is a splendid “collier ruban” all made of supple gold fabric featuring the so iconic “Palace” workmanship, used since the 1960’s, consisting of sculpting the metal with delicate grooves, all horizontally placed, obtaining an iridescent and luminous effect similar to tree bark. Fluid and very tactile (1). Slightly asymmetrical, the two sections of the necklace are reunited at the centre thanks to a superb sunburst motif made of golden rays, turquoises and marquise-cut diamonds. A group of dangling gold chains detaching from the star are set with diamonds and turquoise boules, adding a splendid movement to the jewel once worn. All the happy mood of the Swinging Sixties is perfectly represented by this necklace. The piece, part of the 2014 “Extremely Piaget“ High Jewellery Collection, was expressly created for the “Biennale des Antiquaires”, held at the Grand Palais in Paris in the same year. As each artisan specialized in this very elegant technique has its own method of engraving the metal, only the same hands can start and complete a watch bracelet or a complex jewel, in order to guarantee that the final piece is perfectly homogeneous regarding the final gold appearance, the type of reflections and iridescence on it. Another superb vintage piece visitors had the chance to admire in Venice was a large cuff-watch characterized by an airy gold chain bracelet, almost like a delicate lace, with the single gold elements interlocking one with the other, resulting in a light, very precious net. At its centre a slightly trapezoid dial has its base completed paved with diamonds, set with the refined technique of the "tapis neige", or snow carpet. The small diamonds, all of round cut and of minimal difference in size, are set one next to the other giving the optical impression of a fresh snow fall. Magic, almost a fairy-tale and extremely sophisticated, this jewel is a model created in 2012 for the then Collection "Couture Précieuse". A true innovator in the world of timepieces and refined jewels, Piaget strongly believes in creativity and artistic values. It is within the production of "Atéliers de l’Extraordinare" that the Maison’s master craftsmen continue to exploit the rare skills that have been preserved from generation to generation, to transform gold, rare gems or semiprecious stones in authentic works of art. Adriano Davoli This article was originaly published in print and online on Moralmoda Magazine 50th Anniversary Issue.

  • Tiffany & Co. encapsulates eccentricity with Hailey Bieber

    Tiffany & Co.'s Tiffany Co. x Andy Warhol holiday campaign film starring Hailey Bieber is one of the most successful and visually pleasing campaigns from the luxury brand. The film is a tribute to the artist’s legendary Factory and love for the holidays. Shot by Mario Sorrenti in New York City with photography by Raymond Meier, the Tiffany & Co. x Andy Warhol campaign film brings the holiday season to life in a larger-than-life party filled with diamonds, Tiffany Blue Boxes and no-rules attitude. “This holiday season, we wanted to celebrate Andy Warhol and uplift his connection to Tiffany & Co. by taking inspiration from the iconic greeting cards that he created for our clients in the ’50s and ‘60s,” said Alexandre Arnault, Executive Vice President, Product and Communication. “The campaign video brings these elements together by paying homage to our longstanding relationship with the one of the world’s most celebrated artists.” The video celebrates the spirit of giving amid a soirée reminiscent of those decadent nights at Warhol’s infamous downtown Factory. In an expansive space illuminated by festive décor, Super-8 camera projections and sparkling Tiffany & Co. designs, Hailey Bieber is the glamorous host of this ultimate holiday party.

  • Gucci opens the Milan Fashion Week

    The anticipated Gucci Menswear Fall Winter 2023/2024 collection debuts in Milan, this is the brand's first fashion show after the departure of Creative Director Alessandro Michele. How would the new Gucci person look after Michele's departure from storied Italian brand? The new collection underlines that the eccentric signature Gucci silhouette is very much alive, while "Haute Punk" is not anymore. This recognisable and timeless eccentricity will likely help the brand to return clients which departed after Creative Director Frida was succeeded by Michele. The collection is extremely wearable and suitable for endless occasions. The fall collection features sporty looks mixed with impeccable tailoring, featuring oversized blazer, pants or warming, floor length skirts with high slit on the front. The energy of the show was mirrored by the live band orchester accompanying the 48 looks presented on the catwalk. The signature look with pointy boots was available in classical interlocking GG logo or vibrant red to spike up the effortlessly chic looks in pastel and neutral tones. Sport seems to have inspired other brands presenting in Milan on Friday including brand Family First (below). Above, FW23 collection by Family First seems to have been inspired by Gucci's aesthetics in several ways. Swiss fashion brand JETSET presents Ski and City collection For the coming winter, the state-of-the-art luxury skiwear brand emphasises nature and sustainability. Featuring design with a lot of attitude, for womenswear and menswear, JETSET is for those not shy of standing out in the crowd and having good time in cosy warm outfits. Saffron and hot pink, rust and bordeaux tones touch the innovation pieces and are combined with army green, black and white, the firm classics. RUBY PONCHO: ALMOND | KIRA BELTED COAT: OFF-WHITE. All images courtesy of JETSET JETSET was founded in 1969 in the fashionable St. Moritz, this proximity to nature inspires JETSET to blend luxury skiwear and sustainability approach, in setting new standards and trends within this segment. GARDENA VEST METALLIC: IVORY | RACER OVERALL GLAM: IVORY | GLAZY LONGSLEEVE: BORDEAUX | KESS SNOW GAITER METALLIC: IVORY Shiny gold is paired with earth tones and purple, in addition to material structures that create fascinating surfaces. Dark grey tones are woven into exclusive prints for men and a sunny orange is found in the women's collection. The way that all pieces can be combined for ski and city segment is another unique feature of JETSET design as seen in this black Domidress that unzips in front to the waist and in the back (below). JETSET was able to double its sales with the A/W 22/23 collection compared to the previous year, and since 2022 the brand continues to position itself in the international luxury market as an all-season brand. With the A/W 23/24 womenswear and menswear collection, further international expansion is now taking place. In addition to expanding the collection in the ski performance segment, JETSET is growing in the city and après-ski segments to create the perfect synergy between active lifestyle and sustainable women's and men's high-performance luxury fashion. Since 2022 JETSET is not only using its expertise to create state-of-the-art luxury skiwear but also Together with the Bluesign® certified swiss textile company Schoeller Textil AG, JETSET places great value on sustainability and innovation, eliminating all down. As an alternative to down, JETSET is working with a technical filling, produced with 100%-recycled fibers from PET bottles, manufacturing eco-friendly sportswear made 100% in Europe, mainly Italy. This has been the key to JETSET’s ongoing success in producing exclusive sports and streetwear for conscientious consumers. JETSET is available at mytheresa.com, Net-a-porter.com, farfetch.com, Brownsfashion.com, and in selected stores and boutiques around the globe, with two JETSET stores located in St. Moritz and Davos and online at jetset.ch. Nature - an important theme for FW 23/24 in Milan This time 1017 Alyx 9SM Menswear Fall Winter collection puts again emphasis on the natural element and environment while featuring numerous denim look among total of 37 presented. Brand Billionaire that is one of few appealing across generations and always Avant-garde also accepting shoppers to pay with cryptocurrency on its website presents timeless elegance and rich evening wear looks for the fall's important social cents. (Images courtesy of www.cameramoda.it)

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