Luxury watchmakers like Jacob & Co. x Concepto Watch Factory, Chronodate Gold x Château Angelus, RESERVOIR x TÉLÔS watch present unique co-creations to expand the final frontiers of watchmaking and medical research for the Only Watch biennial charity auction.
This edition features more than 62 one-off luxury watches, created for the upcoming 10th edition of the ONLY WATCH auction. With several brands participating, each creating a one-of-a-kind watch, the popular platform has proved a hotbed of creativity.
Indeed, Only Watch has become a laboratory where new materials and techniques are shown for the first time, sometimes prior to eventual commercialisation. The charity auction of unique watches to take place on November 5, 2023, in Geneva under the hammer of Christie’s at PALEXPO.
Jacob & Co. x Concepto Watch Factory for Only Watch
FERDINAND BERTHOUD Chronomètre FB 3 “Only Watch” Ref: FB 3SPC.5
The Chronomètre FB 3 “Only Watch” is a one-of-a-kind anniversary timepiece in patinated bronze. Housed in this unique case is the world’s only calibre with a cylindrical balance-spring officially chronometer-certified by the COSC.
PATEK PHILIPPE
A watch as a tribute to Philippe Stern
On the occasion of the 85th birthday of Philippe Stern in November, Patek Philippe Honorary President, Thierry Stern, President of the Geneva manufacture, has chosen to pay tribute to his father by creating an exclusive limited-edition wristwatch with his favorite grand complication, which will feature an entirely new movement. This movement, designed and produced exclusively for this tribute watch, will never be used again.
"This is a way of thanking him for everything he taught me and all the passion for excellence that he deployed in favor of Patek Philippe”.
The first timepiece of this 30-piece limit
CHANEL Mademoiselle J12 La Pausa Only Watch Refs: H9962 / H9963
A heady combination
Chronodate Gold x Château Angelus is the fruit of a delicate blend. Its dial has been made from freeze-dried lees from the 2022 vintage, named “Le Majestueux” (the majestic). This powdered wine is used as is, delicately deposited on the base of the dial. These lees alone give the piece all its texture and colour. At 6 o’clock, there is a red gold applique bearing a faithful engraving of the Château’s bell.
Chronodate Gold x Château Angelus
Reservoir x Telos watch Tiefenmesser tourbillon unique piece for only watch 2023
The Tiefenmesser Tourbillon is a unique RESERVOIR x TÉLÔS watch co-creation for Only Watch 2023, combining creative vintage display – 240° retrograde minute and jumping hour – with renowned high-watchmaking savoir-faire from Switzerland.
RESERVOIR's very first in-house Tourbillon in collaboration with TÉLÔS watchis a major technical step change for the emerging and independent brand, achieved with the collaboration of the renowned movement manufacturer from La Chaux-de-Fonds, RESERVOIR’s strategic partner since its earliest days. The unique crafted piece takes inspiration from the nautical measuring instruments of the last century, with a typical display like the depth gauge aboard submarines. Encapsulated in a bronze case, it displays a regulator-type enamel “Grand Feu” dial, a blue hand for the retrograde minutes at 240° and jumping hours – last both being the brand’s aesthetic signature.
“ONLY WATCH is a fantastic opportunity for the entire watch industry to come together to do the right thing, selflessly,” says Pascal Raffy, owner, BOVET 1822. “Helping children is the focus of ONLY WATCH, and as such this cause is dear to my heart”.
To celebrate the 10th edition of ONLY WATCH, Bovet chose magenta as the primary color because of what it represents - kindness, harmony, support, and love. As for the timepiece, the award-winning Orbis Mundi was selected as the base for this year’s edition because of its universal time display, and for how travel brings the world together, expanding horizons, fostering understanding, and increasing compassion.
Maurice Lacroix Only Watch 2023
A celebration of colour, transparency and mechanical prowess
Only Watch has gained a reputation for showcasing the talents of the most accomplished artisans, designers and craftspeople alike, culminating in the auction attracting legions of horophiles, each seeking an extraordinary timepiece.
Maurice Lacroix has been a longtime supporter of the charity and returns this year with a remarkable creation housed in a sapphire crystal case. The model encompasses an eye-popping array of hues and features a hand-wound Manufacture movement.
Maurice Lacroix, the Jura-based watch brand is widely known for crafting urban-themed timepieces that deliver high-perceived value. However, despite enjoying much commercial success, especially with its popular AIKON model, the Swiss firm also remains committed to giving something back to society.
In 2009, Maurice Lacroix participated in Only Watch for the first time and has continued to do so ever since. The biennial charity event raises funds for research into Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy.
Over the years, Maurice Lacroix has created some outstanding watches and this year promises to be no exception. The Maurice Lacroix Only Watch 2023 is presented in a 43mm sapphire case, a first for the Maison. The use of the clear material extends to the bezel and crown. The making of a sapphire crystal case is protracted, necessitating numerous hours of polishing. Beyond its colourless purity, sapphire is incredibly hard, measuring 9 on the Mohs scale, surpassed only by diamond which has a hardness of 10.
Breguet Marine Hora Mundi for Only Watch 2023
Breguet is repeating its participation in the Only Watch auction. This charity event organised by the Only Foundation takes place every two years. This exceptional auction featuring one-of-a-kind models from several watch brands will take place this November at Palexpo, Geneva.
JC BIVER Watches presents Catharsis
On a starlit night, the moon cresting over the horizon, a wave of sapphires breaks, sweeping aside hands and indexes to reveal a new order.
JC BIVER Watches previews this new, unprecedented configuration in which dial, crown and hands play off each other in a completely new division of roles.
Catharsis is a singular interpretation of the minute repeater carillon tourbillon, with no visible display of time. Made of titanium, the piece combines unusual handcrafts, with unique techniques for invisible gem-setting, stone marquetery and guilloché.
Thanks to the total absence of hands on the dial, and freed from all technical constraints, the dial can fully express itself with a seemingly random pattern of 89 sapphires, in three dimensions, to give volume to the stones, the natural effect of the movement of sea waves.
A world first: This is the first ever watch with a case carved from a block of moissanite
Moissanite is an extraterrestrial mineral discovered in 1893 in a meteorite crater. It is the second hardest material on earth after diamond (its hardness on the Mohs scale is between 9.25 and 9.5), making it virtually impossible to machine. Moissanite’s light dispersion index is twice that of diamond (0.104 vs. 0.044), resulting in an extraordinary rainbow of brilliance and scintillation. The case is cut with 600 facets (a traditionally cut diamond has just 58 facets) to magnify moissanite’s high dispersion index – and free the fire! Extraordinary resistance meets extraordinary radiance in a norm-defying moissanite watch case, pushing the boundaries far beyond those of conventional materials.
© Jacob & Co
A four-axis tourbillon. It's a world first, gifted to watchmaking's most illustrious charity. It's a technological achievement. It's the acknowledgment of a deep and fruitful partnership between Jacob & Co. and Concepto Watch Factory. It's proof that being “Inspired by the impossible” makes the impossible come true. Astronomia Revolution 4th Dimension is fitted with a triple-axis flying tourbillon at the end of a two-arm carousel. It rotates every 60 seconds. This makes it a four-axis tourbillon, the first ever of its kind fitted in a wristwatch. What's more, the tourbillon carriage contains a high frequency constant force escapement. The Astronomia Revolution 4th Dimension is not only an unheard-of complication. Its execution is also from another dimension. In compliance with the Only Watch 2023 color theme, it contains 35 colored gems, set culet side up. A kinetic work of mechanical art and a jewelry accomplishment, Astronomia Revolution 4th Dimension is not just a unique piece. It's a vessel like no other.
Only four months after introducing its ground-breaking Astronomia Revolution, Jacob & Co. cranks up the innovation to the maximum, yet again. Astronomia Revolution 4th Dimension is an amplified and upgraded take on the one-minute rotating movement with triple-axis tourbillon. Developed, released and signed jointly with Jacob & Co.'s main movement partner Concepto Watch Factory, Astronomia Revolution 4th Dimension features a four-axis flying tourbillon. This watchmaking achievement is the brainchild of Jacob & Co. And Concepto Watch Factory’s founder, master watchmaker and CEO Valérien Jaquet.
“From the beginning of the Astronomia collection, I wanted it to spin as fast as possible, and then we reached one minute with Astronomia Revolution, says Jacob Arabo. "I wanted it to be an extraordinary tourbillon, and then we reached four axes. This is the first time a timepiece breaks the triple-axis tourbillon barrier. Together, Jacob & Co. and Concepto Watch Factory decided this level of ingenuity and expertise had to be bestowed upon such an unanimously recognized charity as Only Watch.”
Crystal structure
Astronomia Revolution 4th Dimension is a unique piece, which will be put up for auction on November 5th and will benefit Only Watch's fight against Duchenne Muscular Dystrophy. Astronomia Revolution 4th Dimension is more than just an implemented movement concept. Jacob & Co. being a watchmaker and a jeweler, Astronomia Revolution 4th Dimension is a piece of high watchmaking and high jewelry.
The piece that lies underneath the spinning carousel is a rose gold structure crafted like a large piece of high jewelry. Jacob & Co. has set this hollowed-out structure with 35 gemstones, chosen among 7 types of gems. Each one is bespoke-cut to form a field of colored light. Each one is placed with its culet side up. The layout purposely feels random, creating a jagged expanse. It captures light, reshapes it and sends it back, colored and enhanced. The Astronomia Revolution 4th Dimension is a mechanical achievement from another dimension, or a crystal planet.
Piaget unveils a unique piece
Piaget has decided to offer a unique piece. A colorful Skeleton Polo, both artistically technical and cool chic. Its design pays fine homage to the work Hexa Grace by Victor Vasarely, precisely exhibited in Monaco
PLACE VENDÔME COMPLICITE – « COURAGE EVERY SECOND » UNIQUE PIECE
A surprising combination of open-worked escapements and outstanding enameling (above right). The new collection Place Vendôme Complicité to be discovered at Geneva Watch Days August 29th to September 2nd at Beau Rivage Hotel (Suite Impératrice Sissi– 1st floor).
Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer A twofold premiere for Only Watch 2023
For the first time since inventing the Central Impulse Chronometer, watchmaker Bernhard Lederer unveils a unique version without a dial: the movement is completely exposed under the crystal. It is also the first model to be offered at auction. True to the innovative ambitions of each of his creations, Bernhard Lederer’s intent for Only Watch 2023 was to design a timepiece with a profoundly reworked aesthetic, first laid bare then imbued with color. This also marks the return of the great watchmaker to Only Watch after 12 years.
Frederique Constant and Christiaan van der Klaauw give life to a unique cosmic creation.
A friendship spanning more than 20 years, a human adventure, the pinnacle of high-flying watchmaking expertise and the unprecedented gathering of talents committed to the Only Watch charity auction: the Tourbillon Planetarium Only Watch 2023 brings together in one the same piece is the tourbillon by Frederique Constant, with its remarkable manual finish, and the planetarium by Christiaan van der Klaauw, the smallest in the world – and the first ever built for a wristwatch. A superlative creation entirely finished by hand, produced in a platinum case of only 42 mm, and a first in the world combining the planetarium of the Dutch house with the Geneva tourbillon, dressed for the occasion with an aventurine dial.
Art as an ode to nature
The rhythms of the water, the reflections of the sky and sun on the surface of the sea, in myriad shades of blue, shining through in the currents, waves and tides...
For the 2023 Edition of Only Watch, Krayon (above) invites us to a contemplation of the natural elements.
The one-off Anywhere Only Watch 2023 proposes an ideal of serene artistry and technical sophistication – time as an intimate connection with our blue planet.
ONLY WATCH 2023: 62 LOTS AND WORLD TOUR REVEAL
As per previous editions and since 2005, the event will be held under the patronage of His Serene Highness Prince Albert II of Monaco. All auction proceeds will benefit research on Duchenne muscular dystrophy (DMD) and genetic diseases (see more below and on onlyproject.org).
This anniversary edition celebrates Only Watch’s bright and colorful story by including all colors of previous editions in its visual identity, and adding the color green, an emblem of hope, as a new component.
On the research side, doctoral and post-doctoral grants for young researchers have taken a central dimension in the charity’s projects, and on the watches side, the 2023 selection features iconic loyal brands and several young brilliant watchmaking talents collaborating to bring an innovative fresh touch to the offering.
Auction to take place in Geneva and digitally on November 5, 2023.
The one-of-a-kind timekeepers are the result of the generous, committed and creative work of 73 watchmakers/brands, featuring 16 collaborations (between watchmakers or with artists and legendary brands), and resulting in an auction of 62 lots.
After the world tour (see details below), all watches will be auctioned by Christie’s Geneva on Sunday November 5, starting at 2pm (CET) at PALEXPO, the auction can also be followed online via christies.com and bids can be additionally placed over phone (please liaise with Christie’s). No buyer’s premium or commissions are applicable for the Only Watch charity sale, as in previous editions.
Please find below the list of watch brands participating in ONLY WATCH 2023, as well as the names of those who have collaborated to create some of these unique timepieces:
ANDERSEN GENÈVE – ANGELUS x CHÂTEAU ANGELUS – ARMIN STROM — ARTYA – ATELIER DE CHRONOMÉTRIE – AUDEMARS PIGUET – BALTIC – BARBIER-MUELLER – BELL & ROSS – BIVER – BLANCPAIN – BOUCHERON – BOVET 1822 – BREGUET – BULGARI – CARL F. BUCHERER – CHANEL – CHOPARD – CZAPEK GENÈVE – DE BETHUNE – F.P.JOURNE – FERDINAND BERTHOUD – FREDERIQUE CONSTANT x CHRISTIAAN VAN DER KLAAUW – FURLAN MARRI – GÉRALD GENTA – GIRARD-PERREGAUX – GRÖNEFELD – H. MOSER x MB&F – HERMÈS – HUBLOT – JACOB & CO x CONCEPTO WATCH FACTORY – JAQUET DROZ – KONSTANTIN CHAYKIN – KRAYON – L. LEROY – LAURENT FERRIER – LEDERER – LOUIS MOINET – LOUIS VUITTON – LUDOVIC BALLOUARD x BRITTANY NICOLE COX – MAURICE LACROIX – MONTBLANC – MORITZ GROSSMANN – PATEK PHILIPPE – PERRELET – PETERMANN BÉDAT x AUFFRET PARIS – PIAGET – RESERVOIR x TELOS WATCH – RESSENCE – REXHEP REXHEPI – RICHARD MILLE — SINGER REIMAGINED x GENUS – SPEAKE MARIN – SYLVAIN PINAUD – TAG HEUER – TIFFANY & CO. — TRILOBE – TUDOR – ULYSSE NARDIN – URWERK — VOUTILAINEN – ZENITH.
The genesis and purpose: raising funds for research on DMD and genetic diseases.
Only Watch was launched in 2005 by Luc Pettavino in collaboration with the watch industry to advance research in the field of therapeutic solutions for Duchenne muscular dystrophy (a genetic disease that affects 1 boy in 3,500), following Paul’s (Luc’s son) diagnosis.
The Monaco-based charity benefiting from the Only Watch auctions, the Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies, has been active internationally since 2001 in accelerating research. Its actions, all regrouped under the name the “Only Project” are focused on:
organizing key conversations (roundtables, collaborative and research programs) for researchers from around the world to share knowledge and accelerate breakthroughs;
financially supporting dozens of research projects with the goal of reaching and refining therapeutic outcomes for DMD.
Thanks to the generosity of watchmakers, collectors and partners, in recent years, the funds raised by Only Watch have allowed for a significant breakthrough in the quest for a cure. On top of grants and fellowships given out by the charity to researchers within public institutions (hospitals and universities), one of the main projects supported is a biotech operated by a consortium of parents and researchers that is currently launching a phase 1 clinical trial for a drug it has developed. The technology aims to treat patients affected by Duchenne muscular dystrophy and could be transposed and adapted for other genetic diseases. The first step in a whole new chapter of a 20+ year collaborative success story.
→ Get to know the charity organization’s history and purpose by watching the movie “The Story of Us” and by visiting http://onlyproject.org/.
World tour locations and dates.
In the weeks preceding the auction, the watches will be presented to the public, media, and horological enthusiasts, during a promotional tour that will start on September 6, 2023, in Los Angeles, and will end on November 5, 2023, in Geneva.Tour stops hosted by ONLY WATCH and Christie’sLos Angeles6-9 September Christie’s New York 14-17 SeptemberChristie’s Hong Kong 5-6 OctoberChristie’s Bangkok 11-12 OctoberChristie’s Geneva3-5 NovemberFour Seasons Hôtel des Bergues Tour stops hosted by ONLY WATCH and Other PartnersMonaco27-30 SeptemberMonaco Yacht Show Singapore 20-22 OctoberMalmaison by The Hour Glass Dubai 27 OctoberSeddiqi at the Musem of the Future → More information of world tour stops on onlywatch.com/attend.
Only Watch started in 2005 with one intent: raise funds for research on Duchenne muscular dystrophy by auctioning one-off timepieces. Since then, thanks to the increasing formidable mobilization of the watch industry and the support of an entire ecosystem, this initiative has become a very awaited biennial rendezvous in the horology calendar for both brands and collectors.
All participating brands offer their watches, whilst partners offer their services, logistical and/or organisational support. Thanks to their commitment, the cost for organising Only Watch represents about 1% of the auction proceeds.
The past 9 editions have allowed for an immense progress in research thanks to the near EURCHF 100 million raised to date and have given the Association Monégasque contre les Myopathies – the Monaco-based charity organizing Only Watch - the means to approach clinical trials while always preserving the virtuous, non-profit nature of our approach.
The 10th edition will be held on November 5, 2023, at 2pm (CET) in Geneva at PALEXPO, as well as online and via phone under the high patronage of His Serene Highness Prince Albert II of Monaco.
• Christie’s auctions span more than 80 art and luxury categories, at price points ranging from $200 to over $100 million. Christie’s has sold 8 of the 10 most important single-owner collections in history, including the Paul G. Allen Collection—the most valuable collection ever offered at auction (November 2022). In recent years, Christie’s also achieved the world record price for an artwork at auction (Leonardo da Vinci’s Salvator Mundi, 2017), for a 20th century artwork (Andy Warhol’s Shot Sage Blue Marilyn, 2022) and for a work by a living artist (Jeff Koons’ Rabbit, 2019). Christie’s Private Sales offers a seamless service for buying and selling art, jewellery and watches outside of the auction calendar, working exclusively with Christie’s specialists at a client’s individual pace.
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